Lower Peanuts

Topo for Lower Peanuts Photo by Myke Komarnitsky

Description 

There are two smaller, N facing crags that make up the Peanuts Walls - Upper and Lower. This division covers the Lower Peanuts Wall for organizational purposes. Here you will find routes from 1-3 pitches in length. No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult. This crag has an advantage of shade in the summer heat. Here, you may feel the feeling of being up with the birds while still close to the ground. Also, there are benefits of some element of isolation with excellent views of the entire northern half of Eldorado Canyon, in particular Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge.

While no climb here is likely to be top twenty in Eldorado Canyon, you can find delightful terrain for traditional-oriented, moderate climber. Some of the gems here include: Your Basic Lieback, 5.6; Star Wars, 5.8; the namesake route, Peanuts (opened by the amazing Layton Kor & Charles Roskosz in 1961), 5.9; Blows Against the Empire, 5.11a; Forbidden Planet, 5.11 a/b; Home Free, 5.11b, & Just Another Girl's Climb, 5.12a/b s.

The left side of the crag is likely the terrain for the seekers of the obscure or runout. Few climbers travel this side of the crag.

Note there is still some loose rock here in places. Caution and helmets may be advisable. Ken Black, on the first free ascent of The Shield, fell to his death after pulling a large block off and chopping his rope.

Descents involve either rappelling or walkoff/scramble off to the climber's right.

Note, this is not a child nor dog friendly area.

Getting There 

There are several ways of approaching the wall. The easiest access is achieved by parking at the western end of the park, possibly at the Rattlesnake Gulch trailhead (about 150m West of the Milton Boulder). Then, head east on this nearly-flat, Fowler Trail probably 1/4 mile until you are below these two crags. Ascend a non-erosive path up the talus field with some boulder hopping to Lower Peanuts.

The other way of getting here is to hike up the Bastille Trail then head West until you're below the talus field.

Featured Route For Lower Peanuts

The Sacred and the Profane 5.13- R  CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : Lower Peanuts

The Sacred and the Profane is a sport climbing history lesson. It's hard to experience the slabby, old school style and sparse bolting on TSATP without being transported back to a time when lycra was king, and footwork, technique, and finesse were the rule. To start TSATP, climb the start of Peanuts, and traverse 30 feet right along an easy ramp until you are below a small roof which is capped by a blunt arete. Clip the first bolt,...[more]

Add Photo Photos of Lower Peanuts

BETA PHOTO: Photo by Myke Komarnitsky

The view from Green Spur area on a clear Feb. morn...