A nice TR with challenging moves. Tough balance in general, then fingery with small feet at the reachy-crux. A great little TR problem.
The blunt arete, pinched between the first pitch of the Bastille Crack and the [Northcutt] start holds an interesting line. The bottom of this is easier than it looks, being perhaps 5.10, as you move upwards the route gets harder, but most difficulties can be beaten at a grade no harder than mid 5.11 by using the holds on both sides of the arete and judiciously switching sides on it with the feet. A physical and insecure crux comes when you would least expect it, joining the Northcutt Start route just before [its] crux, perhaps 15 meters up the arete. This move is fingery and on poor feet, but goes surprisingly perhaps as low as 12b. Finish by completing the arete and face to the anchors.
I would say that I am surprised that this route sees no previous mention on this site. Then again, I had passed it by without attention for over a decade of climbing in Eldo.
Protection
Top rope from an anchor on Bastille crack. There is NO GEAR on this route and the moves are both hard and insecure.
I remember feeling slightly crestfallen when Derek told me he had done the arete; I had put in my share of tries over many years. More than just a committed soloist, he was an excellent technical climber. Long live the King
By Jay van Sam From: Denver CO Aug 15, 2009 rating: 5.12a X
Wow, I thought this route was great. Interesting, thought provoking moves that left me smiling when I got to the top. I would give it three or four stars if it wasn't in Eldo. Makes me wonder if putting bolts in so one could lead it would be a worthwhile endeavor. My hunch though is that 40 feet of .12a in a canyon that hosts so much isn't worth equipping for lead, especially since so few seem to climb it.
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