This is one of the last routes up the West Ridge. It's actually a separate rock, just west of where the West Ridge descent trail kicks you out. The black, shaded north face is split by this line. A wide slot runs up and left, while a diagonal hand crack runs up and right. In between these, four bolts continue straight up the thin face, through 2 distinct huecos. A nice line, and a good one to seek out when the rest of the rock is baking hot.
Protection
4 draws, ~3 Camalot, and something smaller for up top.
It should be pointed out that this climb is quite height dependent -- easier if taller. Do the direct start for extra value. Beautiful rock. Sharp, tweaky moves. Too short and straightforward to be a three star.
I did this today again. At the top, (just below the crack with the tree in it) you'll be tempted to go right a bit and get a jug, but you CAN go straight up the face to the horizontal. It's very crimpy (like more so even than down below), but fun and next time I lead it, I'll try it this way since the bolt is right there...ahhh the "next times" :)
I'm glad people are enjoying the route. The grade is certainly height dependent. I did the route again recently and still think 11a is a fair grade for average height climbers, if you're 6 feet or taller it's probably 5.10 something, if 5'6" or shorter 5.11 something. It's also chalk dependent. The last time I had done this route was about 5 years earlier in the sun on a hot day with Jim Erickson who led it sans chalk: 12c. Bolts were replaced in October 2003.
Awesome pitch!!! Sharp positve edges to cling to but, so small!! For me the crux was the move to the hueco, my friend just jumped for it, I had to use some fancy footwork!!
By Kevin Neilson From: Boulder Nov 6, 2005 rating: 5.11a
I like this route because I can go to Eldo and still be a "sport wanker", as my friends like to denigrate me. I struggled earlier this year on my onsight attempt but had no issues today; the crimps are small, but solid, and the slight slabbiness allows for some resting. On my first attempt I tried to stay directly on the bolt line at the top, as Kirk suggests, but today I reached right to the crack. I suspect this is how most people do it since most people say the crux is getting to the bottom hueco, and avoiding the crack at the top seems like much thinner moves. I used three pieces besides the anchor: a 3.5 Camalot for the bottom, a gold Camalot right above it, and a red Camalot above the last bolt.
West Ridge - top to Xanadu
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