This is your essential [1-move] wonder. In the vicinity of Die Heeda Rule and Tombstone this jug-fest lies waiting the eager 5.10 climber of any sort, Gym-rat, sport-boy, or crusted trad. The gear is [straight-forward], and the holds inspire confidence. Get ready to heel hook, heel-toe cam, and go for the big holds.
[Follow the directions to Die Heeda Rule. This route begins as for Die Heeda Rule, but at the top of the big flake, moves up and right onto the "jug-fest" face rather than left into the dihedral.]
This is 5.8 tops if you can reach the hold. There are many Gunks 8s (land of roofs) much harder than this. I think the ceiling on P1 of Touch and Go is harder than this. Plus, it's essentially top roped with gear high on Die Heeda Rule (fixed nut as of today). The climbing above is pleasant (not silly as Josh says), with a bit of a move over a bulge and some runouts on easy knobs.
By Tom Ormond From: Nederland, Colorado Aug 17, 2008
It's a trip moving to Boulder from the Gunks. I agree 5.8, at most.
Hawk-Eagle Ridge
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