This is the most obvious Route at Physical crag, as you can easily see it for 1/2 mile away. It's big, it's wide, it overhangs like crazy for the first half. Approach Physical crag's upper-right-hand tier and stand below the yawning crack. Go up it. The climb is not what it appears to be, so approach it with no prejudices. OW & squeeze technique will be useful, but not necessary for a sucsessful ascent of this bizare line. I give this 4 stars due to the wild and unique nature of the route, which I can't say too much about without spoiling the adventure of it.
Protection
Either top rope it with some swing potential- maybe into a pine tree, or TR on stoppers and medium cams + a long cord.
Or go buy some OW pro. Big Bros protect the first 20' which are much larger than #5 camalot. As well, you can lasso a few chockstones with 4' slings if so desired. 2' slings won't be long enough. After pulling through the top of the bulge, the size is more manageable and the grade much easier. Takes a standard set of cams to finish.
This route and Crown Joules are two of the finest routes in this section of Eldo. I climbed (led) both of these routes with Alec Sharp in tow a year after the FA. I thought they were fairly hard pitches with good gear in a beautiful and remote setting. Well worth the walk and effort to climb them. Good addition Tony.
I would have said the crux was getting off of the chockstone, with the move to it being hard, but not quite as hard. It will probably depend upon body size- with skinney people finding the lower part eisier and people with VERY long arms (we're talking LOOOONG here) finding the top less difficult.
This is an outrageous climb, a must-do for offwidth lovers! More than good OW technique, this seems to require a serious abs workout, and general tenacity and endurance. I didn't lead it, but the protection seems fine if you have some large cams, bigger than the #5 Camalot. Can now be rapped from two slung chockstones at the top... otherwise, an interesting 4th class descent.
Physical Crag
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