"An historic route" according to some. "Essential" to others who believe a Rotwand route is a necessary inclusion on an Eldo climber's resume.
Since all the rock looks essentially the same, junky, the start is difficult to pinpoint with accuracy. However, it is about 70' or so to the left of where the southernmost point of the cliff hits the path that traverses along the river. A very indistinct climber's trail leaves the river path about 30 feet before you would have to duck under or climb over a fallen tree that crosses the river path. This 30' climber's trail takes you directly to the foot of the route. The route takes the line of least resistance.
Climb up and slightly right for about 30 feet to a big ledge. (5.4) Traverse left about 50 feet to a good sized tree that is an obvious landmark from the ground. (5.4) Then head up a left facing corner system, over some small overhangs to the top. (5.7)
I believe the seriousness rating for those with experience on imperfect rock is closer to an s. The rock is bad, but not as bad as reputation has it. Test the holds, weight equally distributed, don't pull out/pull down, and step up more than pull on the handholds. Good training for the big limestone walls of the world. (E.g.. Canadian Rockies).
One more item worth mentioning. "Sick Mic" Fairchild has done 120 laps on the Rotwand, many of them alone, the last when he graciously showed me this route.
By Mic Fairchild From: Boulder Oct 24, 2003 rating: 5.7
Enviro considerations: the Artesian aquifier is just below this rock. be considerate and deposit human waste elsewhere. Legal consids: the east side (descent slab) is not on park property, but belongs to the Eldorado Water bottlers. Use common sense to keep this resource available. Climbing consids: on-sight, this is still a serious undertaking. Not everyone has the experience to make this a safe one.
By Mic Fairchild From: Boulder Jul 14, 2004 rating: 5.7
speed record (not advisable) 5 min 10 sec on 24 May 04
14 July 2004 completed summit trip #150 on this crag. Mostly on the Rotwand Route (mostly). This rock remains a unique adventure in Eldorado, and while I've pulled off numerous rocks over the years, it seems pretty cleaned off lately. Enjoy and be careful!
While climbing this superb historic route today, Mick soloed right past me & took my picture! Although I've been climbing in Eldo for 13 years, this was my first Rotwand Route. HILARIOUS and classic climbing...hats off to Mick! Long live the Rotwand!
By Mic Fairchild From: Boulder Oct 23, 2007 rating: 5.7
Damn, sports fans. Looks like 200+ summit trips now. It's still the best exfoliating onion-of-a-crag in Eldo! D'ya wanna live forever?
The thing that I've always loved best about Die Rotwand routes is that if you don't like any particular handhold you can just pluck it out and toss it over your shoulder.
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