To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Day Dream is probably best left as a toprope, as the crux is not really protected and the rock is poor. Toprope after climbing Shadow or Flower Quarter, or traverse on to this ledge from the climber's trail just below Rewritten. This line is easy to pick out by locating a piton with grey webbing hanging off of it just above the roof.
Pick a variety of starts: choose from a slab just above the wooden staircase, or a short steep dihedral uphill and left of the slab. Gain another huge ledge about 20 feet up. From here, climb loose face with a lot of lichen up to a large 5 foot roof. Pull the roof with sidepulls (they feel loose) up to big jugs at a point just below the mentioned piton. Continue up fun, clean face with hueco-like jugs to a small tree, then finish up to the ledge.
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