To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
This spectacular and spooky route starts at the top of the second pitch of Le Toit and ends at the top of Rosy Crucifixion in one 190 foot pitch. From the bolted anchor on Le Toit move up and left into a right facing corner via 5.9+ moves. Follow the corner until you reach two pitons and head hard left, it is runout after the pitons. Join up with Rosy C. at the bolted anchor on the second pitch and follow its third pitch to the Upper Ramp. While the crux is pretty well protected for the leader it is pretty serious before and after. The second should be very solid at the grade because a fall from the crux moves will result in a huge swing.
Protection
Couple of pitons, small to medium cams, stoppers...
There's good gear before the crux and a big horn that wraps nicely with a double-length sling after the crux. The 2 pins at the crux are junk, but the LA before them and the gear you can place below that pin are good. After the crux section, it's a moderate and run-out rising left traverse with one 9-ish move near the end. Certainly no worse for leader or 2nd than the Le Toit pitches that lead up to it.3 stars for position & moves. 2 stars for rock quality. 1 star for gear. Well worth doing!
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO May 31, 2004 rating: 5.10b
I'm going to agree that the rating is not as hard as most established Eldo 10c's. I'll also say that I don't think the gear is that bad, you get plenty of OK gear along the way and there is certainly enough available to make and ascent safe, provided you place it.In hindsight, it is too bad I didn't tie this into the second pitch of Le Toit for a single long pitch. The pitches would combine nicely, and despite the winging route that would have created, I believe that the judicious use of 2' slings would keep the rope drag down. TOo bad I didn't read this suggestion first.
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