A climber turning the 5.8 roof of Calypso Direct w...
Description
A fun alternate exit for Calypso. Start up Calypso. At the roof where Calypso heads right, cut up and left instead through a steep crack (5.8) up to a ledge with a large pine tree and 2-bolt anchor with rap rings (this is the top of the first pitch of Tagger). Rap 75' from here to the ground or continue up Tigger (5.5), Tagger (5.10c), Across the River from Butt Hair (5.9), or the G.Y. Dihedral (5.8 - not recommended) to the walk-off ledge.
See existing comments on Calypso for additional beta.
By Ernie Port From: Boulder, Colorado Dec 11, 2003
Another option for P2 of this variation... once you've cleared the roof and gained the ledge above, climb the slab straight up another 20' or so, traverse right, then down another 20' to gain the ramp for linking this with Reggae. The traverse is easy, but runnout. A solid black Alien was my only placement...
This is a fun alternative to Calypso with a bit more spice! The overhang is a lot of fun to go over! My first 5.8. On a gear note, as you are going over the overhang to the right of the crack and up is a pocket that takes a red alien and protects well through the crux. Watch out though, on the overhang you have to lieback on a really good hold that felt solid but I noticed cracks all the way around it. A fantastic route!
Wind Tower - SW Face
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