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Auburn Court 

5.10c

   

FA: Mark Hammond, Dougald MacDonald
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 180 feet
Views: 248 page views

Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Apr 13, 2003


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Description 

This is just a variation to Auburn Lane, but it turns a half-star route into 1.5 stars, with a second 5.10 crux and more good climbing.

Climb Auburn Lane through its crux finger crack (about 5.10c) and up the fun corner to a roof. The normal route climbs over this roof and ends abrubtly in a chossy gully. To do Auburn Court, crank over a bulge immediately left of the roof via hand jams (5.10a or b), then continue up the sweet hand crack past a tree. Hand traverse to the rright under a block, along a finger crack, to reach the top. This adds about 30-35 feet of high-quality climbing and takes the route right to the summit of Fin III.

By the way, you can do this entire route in one pitch with a 60-meter rope.


Protection 

Standard Eldo rack.



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By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 28, 2007

Definitely the best finish to Auburn Lane. Watch for rope drag if linking with Auburn Lane as a single 150' pitch.