To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Climb Guenese to the first bolt passing a pin en route. Follow two more bolts straight up to the anchor. A pin can be clipped after the last bolt for the run to the anchor. Crimpy and powerful. Maybe a little spanny for the vertically challenged. Best not done on a hot day in the sun.
Hmmm.. How did this little classic escape posting here for so long? Thin, super-crisp edges separated by long pulls on a vertical wall add up to a fine sequence. The line looses a litle in continuity from the initial traverse leading into the perfect stone in the mid section and from the slightly odd finish that traverses back left. For my taste, it has always seemed reasonable to place a separate anchor at the bona fide top of Downpressor and skip the final traverse. DM is a nifty line for working the feet and the crimp strength.
Eric Goukas showed me this line shortly before he died. I took Rolofson up there and we decided to bolt it. I think Rolofson didn't have enough money for the bolts so I bought some of them. Back then I was content to top rope it and call it a climb...The bolt thing was not really big.
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