Lucid Dream 

FA:  ?? T. Bubb, C. Parks, 11/16/02 ?? New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Views: 76 page views Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 16, 2002 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Raptor Nesting Closure Info MORE INFO >>> To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier. This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

The route is not described in the Eldorado Guidebook and may or may not be a FFA. Please correct the site if this route has been previously climbed.

Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. Backtrack perhaps 30 feet, passing a 12 foot juniper which tree grows up nearly against the wall. About 35' up you will see another conifer just right of an inset through a bulge/roof and just left and above two small right-facing dihedrals. Just further right is an inset below a blocky, L-shaped roof, which is "two squares deep" on the Right and "one square deep" on the left. Perhaps 3-4 meters further right still is a pin driven in over the roof with a ratty grey sling dangling from it. This sling may not last much longer, so perhaps just look for an over-driven pin.

Climb up from the ground through a small overhang and continue up and right on easy territory to the L-shaped roof. Climb up under it, place a piece of pro and climb out he right side of it onto the slab above (crux, 5.8+?). Climb up the intermittent cracks (thin) up the slab above to reach the ledge, staying left of the obvious cracks off to your right. The slab is 5.8- (?) and a little runout. For the most part, this climb is good rock and is clean. It possibly could be made easier with some wandering.

To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, then down to near the metal ladder again.

Protection 

A set of nuts including RP's and a set of cams from .5-2".