To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. There is a right-facing dihedral hanging up above you. Start climbing just to the right of this, bypassing an overhang to start (8+, pro with 1.5" TCU or cam)and up to another overhang to the two fingercracks visible above, 5-8 feet right of the Schizophrenia dihedral.Continue to the top of the wall on these, which zig-zag a bit though 5.5 moves.
Continue up to the top of this wall, perhaps 40 feet in all to a ledge and belay as for Schizophrenia.
To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, then down to near the metal ladder again.
Protection
A set of nuts and a set of cams from micros to 2 inches.