To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
This route is named as it is so as to bear resemblance to a route nearby, Senora, which I couldn't be sure I'd exactly found. Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. Continue up the ladder and walk another 30' or so. You will see an inset in the wall, a hanging ledge full of mahonia plants. From the left side it can be approached fromt he grond beside, but from the right, it would require some [amount] of climbing to get to.
Spot a right-facing arete that leads from the ground to the right-hand side of the inset. Below and right of this arete is a severely overhanging right-facing dihedral with what appears to be (but is not) a decent handcrack.Climb the arete to the shelf, where the dihedral flip-[flops] and becomes left facing and the arete does likewise. Continue up the arete until you reach a point where the second dihedral comes together to make a crack. Climb the crack to a tree on the [ledge at] the top of the wall and belay there.
To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, then down to near the metal ladder again.
Protection
Not much. I soloed the route's bottom half after having lead the top half as a finish to another route with basically no gear. Gear can be had in a few spots, if you take a few 2' slings and cams 1.5 to 3.5 inches
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