A bit contrived and the best section is short, but very fun climbing and surprisingly good pro make this a worthy addition to the Pony Express area. This route follows the arete immediately to the right of Dandi-Line and about 8 feet left of Sister Morphine. Start on Dandi-Line and step right onto the large block at the base of the arete, about 40 feet above the ground. The next 20 feet is the crux, with balancey arete-palming and face moves. Place pro in an intermittent vertical crack to the right and horizontals higher up. Make sure you have a 1.5 Friend or equivalent to protect a short slot at mid-crux. Stay on or right of the arete all the way to the top -- this feels contrived in the second half, where it would be easy to step left into Dandi-Line, but the crux section (and best climbing) is totally independent.
Protection
Standard Eldo rack with RPs, up to hand-size cams.
By Wayne Crill From: an Altered State Nov 24, 2008 rating: 5.9
I did this line yesterday not previously knowing anything about it. I think it's better than Dougald and Dave imply. Yeah, I guess it's a bit contrived, but it is big fun for when you're in the area, easily toproped off the SM anchors and a safe lead at the grade (though not for breaking into it). For maximum contrived fun, I recommend the unprotected 20' direct slab approach off the ground (between DL and SM), nice quality, some kinda .10.
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