At the upper crux at the 5th bolt. After that it's...
Description
Perhaps the best of the 5.11 face climbs on Cadillac. This climb can be easily done in one 200 foot pitch.
Located on the right face of fin 3. Climb the first, and best, pitch of Auburn Lane (10d).Clip the bolts on the face to left of the optional belay cove and confront the crux. More bolt protected, consistently good face climbing takes you towards the top, where a gear starts to be required again.
Rossiter's guide rates this as 5.11c, but there is no section harder than 11b.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Jul 28, 2003 rating: 5.11b
Actually, Rossiter's latest Eldo book rates this 5.11d. I'd have to agree that it is easier- and perhaps easier still because yesterday I snapped off the sharp part of the crux hold and it got better. I tend to sacrifice a little strength for security and lean back hard to make my feet stick better- I leaned back on the diagonal crimp and 'pop' now it's a little different. My partner, who normally has to grovel a bit on climbs harder than 5.11b came up it clean without too much struggle, despite hot/humid conditions.
Building a good anchor up top while keeping the rope off of sharp edges is a little problematic, build it to avoid cutting your rope in the event of a fall.
Neat route. P1 breaks charicter from P2, but both are fun.
Another of many mismatches between Rossiter's rating in the text and what it says on the topo. The text says 11d, but the topo shows an 11b crux down low, and an 11a crux higher. Needed a magnifying glass to read the notations on the topo.
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