To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
This is a short TR problem on the far R side of the Redgarden Wall. There is a short, overhanging wall near a big tree nearly just across from the start to Wind Ridge.
Best to scramble (be careful) around and set up a TR. Used a #2, #2 1/2, #3, #4 Friends with some 4 foot slings.
Have fun pulling and yarding on this steep little route. Long throws.
There is also a fun overhanging crack to the L, Balance of Terror, 5.9 (stiff).
Addendum: The posted rating was derived from R. Rossiter's fine S. Boulder Climbs guidebook. Having not the immense experience of climbing, I didn't challenge the rating. Addendum: okay, I've change the rating given the feedback.
Protection
Trick question, eh? Okay, there are a few spots for pro.
There's actually a few spots you can get pretty good gear in. A #1 BD cam fits perfectly halfway up, then a few feet above that, you can get a #2 that protects the moves over the lip. It's just a little sketchy until you get that 1st piece in. It's a pretty fun, although really short, route.
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