This route begins with the same 4th class approach as Peanuts (look for a dead horizontal tree part way up the cliff). Set up a belay about 15 left of the start of Peanuts. The crux is above the first bolt and is height-dependent to reach a good edge. The short slab is followed by a short crack, which has one difficult move. Follow the crack to a ramp, up and right, continuing to the desired anchor. This route provides a good approach pitch for Air Guitar.
Protection
2 bolts protect the initial slab. The upper crack and ramp traverse can be protected with gear up to 1". There is a two-bolt anchor where this route merges with Peanuts offering a rappel option, or one can continue along the ramp to the 2-bolt anchor on Just Another Girl's Climb.
I'm 5'11" and was just able to reach the good edge at the crux. If you can reach this edge, its probably the easiest 11 in Eldo.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Jun 16, 2002 rating: 5.11a
Well... I'm 5'10" and I could ALMOST reach the hold. I have to use a funky foot smear to add a tiny bit of height. It felt like 5.11a that way to me. My partner was 6'0" and found it to be quite easy. If I'd been 4" shorter, it would have been *_quite_* hard.
Who's spraying, A.C.? It seems like everyone here says this route is 11a (the rating listed). I guess there is even a short-person solution that makes this route 11a. Everyone is different and if this routes doesn't play to your strengths, it might feel tougher than 11a or visa-versa. Just like any route.
I just did this route last night and really enjoyed it. It is very safe and has fun climbing on it. There are no longer the fixed stoppers as mentioned in Ken's description. At the top of the wall, where Peanuts ends, there are two good bolts and a rappel anchor. You can rappel from here with one rope, though we continued up the ramp as recommended (in order to climb another pitch).
I agree with Ken that this is the easiest 5.11 I've ever done in Eldo. Granted I haven't done that many, but this is a far cry from the first pitch of the Naked Edge. I'm six feet tall and I could reach the jug hold and even got both hands on it before sliding across the face (it was ugly, but worked). If you can reach this hold, the pitch might be as easy as 10a, but I hope no one rates it that easy. Certainly it is an easier lead than the first pitch of Outer Space (10a).
Now that said, if you can't reach this hold, then it would be an entirely new ballgame. I'm amazed that Jimmy Redo would think this route is only 11a. I'd believe 5.11+ for someone short. You'd have to be a slab footwork master!
I've climbed many 10s in Eldo and a few 11s...certainly this route is a one move wonder but far from 10a. Perhaps, for a slabmaster, this route is easier than the first pitch of Outer Space, but for me it was thought provoking and a bit of a challenge. I think the rating is solid.
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton, CO May 18, 2009 rating: 5.11a
It's a fun, one move wonder at the crux, but I agree that it is an 11a move.
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