To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Go up the West Face of Redgarden Wall on the trail, just past the second set of Railroad Tie stairs. From the top of these stairs, look right to the wall and down a short distance, to where a medium-sized conifer sits on a ledge just a short scramble above the ground. This is at the start of Velvet Hammer.
P1: From the tree, start up through a flake that leans up and left and forms a crack through the roof, just 10 feet or so off of the ledge. Jam and cling out through this roof, protecting the crack with cams (5.10c). The area is lichenous and sharp- wear tape gloves to avoid mashing your hands and maybe a pair of goggles to keep the $hit out of your eyes. The moves are fun, but this first pitch really needs cleaned. Oh, and try to stay out of the tree if you fall. Continue up the crack to a big sloping ledge. Once on the ledge above, you can build a lousy belay, or continue up on the second pitch, which I recommend.
P1 can be avoided by climbing the first pitch of The Slimy Spoon (5.8)
P2: There are a series of 3 very similar looking dihedrals up and left of you. Climb up the right side of the right-most of these (5.9) and past it to another big ledge. Move up and left on the ledge and belay below the big arete up above.
P3: Go left around the arete and climb some crack and face to reach the top of the Lower Ramp. (5.8-)
Protection
As standard rack with a full set of cams. The fall potential is not serious, but at the crux of the first pitch, it would be possible to get snagged into the tree just behind you. Thus, place a "thin hands" cam well overhead prior to making these moves.
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