Bob Horan on French Fry, Potato Chip, Eldorado Can...
Description
Killer position, awesome moves, but man what a pile! After I unweighted the first left foothold it crumbled, larger loose holds to the top...Which way is up? After the fourth bolt I was'nt sure where to go, so I went up. A bit hairy, but I did'nt have a sling to drape over this huge (loose) flake. Once on top...Where the *@&% is the anchor?? So I straddled the summit, lowered down my end to get two long tied runners and a big link to sling around the summit... Anyway, there is a defined crux getting to the third bolt. Basically, some good powerful moves with loose holds...Two stars I guess.
It seemed really clean (and thin) when I was up there last weekend. Maybe Alex removed the last of the thin chips and flakes while he was up there. Great position leaves you wintering in the sun long after everything else is in the shade. The chains are easy to scramble to so we ended up toproping the route, but it looks like a blue or yellow TCU and sling would be useful past the 4th bolt. But, by that time the climbing eases up considerably.
Even though the route is so short, I would give it 3 stars. I'll [definitely] be back up there to get the redpoint.
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