To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
This is a hybrid/link-up type route but it actually covers some pretty cool terrain and must be one of the most overhung routes in Eldo.
Start on Kloeberdanz, cranking through the crux 11a roof until you're perched on the slab over the lip. Move up and left onto the hanging arete and clip a bolt.
Power out the arete to the lip of roof and clip another bolt, then hand traverse left along the good rail at the lip of the roof band. Clip a final bolt and continue left (crux), eventually joining Guenese at the good lieback flakes over the roof.
Use long draws on this route to prevent rope drag. It's easiest to clean this one on top-rope.
Protection
Some small gear for the pillar at the start of Kloeberdanz and TCU's/stoppers for the corner on Guenese.
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