To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
On the piller between the big dihedral second pitch of Rover and the OW second pitch of Ruper, locate 3 bolts on the left side of the face right of the arete. This route was originally rated 12a/b, the newest guide book notes 11d, but for some reason its not that hard. Good position and fun moves, but poorly placed bolts is how I would describe this rig. I thought the crux was clipping the last bolt (if you are well under 6' then even more so). Regaurdless, a great link-up into the Rover crux pitch above.
A good pitch. Of the three bolts, the only easily clippable one is the first. The second bolt is about four feet away from a perfect stance, but once clipped you'll have overhead pro for most of what I thought was the crux. The third bolt is clipped mid-move making the last hard section a little harder than necessary. It would be nice to have the bolts placed more logically (and to have modern bolts). Also, a med/lg stopper will safely get you to the first bolt. It was definitely way overrated at .12a and .11d. It seems like .11b/c even with the bolts being hard to clip.
11b/c climbing, but making the 3rd clip feels like 11+.
By Scott Bennett From: Superior, CO Jan 19, 2009 rating: 5.11c
I really enjoyed this route, it was nice to find a fun, well-protected, hard route in a cool position. As for the bolt positioning, clipping the second and third was difficult, but both had good stances right below them and I found it easy to downclimb back to the stances after clipping for quick rests. Overall, I didn't think the bolt positions made the route any harder.
The second and third bolt looked like they've been recently replaced (thanks!), and the first, although old, still looks a lot better than some of the museum pieces in Eldo.
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