On the piller between the big dihedral second pitch of Rover and the OW second pitch of Ruper, locate 3 bolts on the left side of the face right of the arete. This route was originally rated 12a/b, the newest guide book notes 11d, but for some reason its not that hard. Good position and fun moves, but poorly placed bolts is how I would describe this rig. I thought the crux was clipping the last bolt (if you are well under 6' then even more so). Regaurdless, a great link-up into the Rover crux pitch above.
A good pitch. Of the three bolts, the only easily clippable one is the first. The second bolt is about four feet away from a perfect stance, but once clipped you'll have overhead pro for most of what I thought was the crux. The third bolt is clipped mid-move making the last hard section a little harder than necessary. It would be nice to have the bolts placed more logically (and to have modern bolts). Also, a med/lg stopper will safely get you to the first bolt. It was definitely way overrated at .12a and .11d. It seems like .11b/c even with the bolts being hard to clip.
Redgarden - Tower One
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