BETA PHOTO: Shirt Tail Peak, high above Eldorado Canyon.
Description
Although this route is only about 150' long, it is best to split it into three short pitches. The route starts on the west side of the Potato Chip.
P1: Climb a rotten gully up under the north face of the Potato Chip. This pitch is unpleasant but not difficult (class 4). Belay at a tree below an obvious diagonal crack.
P2: Ascend the Spud Nordwand via the diagonal crack! This crack overhangs slightly and varies a lot in width over its 50' length. There is one wide section which fortunately does not last long. The crux is near the top where the crack narrows down to thin hands/fingers. Belay on the west ridge where the crack ends.
P3: Traverse out onto the south face, then head straight up to a belay on top (5.9). This is the only pitch that is not well protected, but I do not remember it being very scary. Alternatively, you can head directly up the west ridge (10a S).
Scramble off to the east (you may want to keep the rope on for a move or two).
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Apr 29, 2002 rating: 5.10c PG13
Take 1 #4 camalot for pitch 2.
Pitch 3 is not difficult, but is very height dependent for security. On the P3 traverse there are a fe moves with a step up onto a reasonable hold, but if you are short you can't get the hands and feet from there at the same time and you have to set on some not-so-hot slopers to get the incut sidepulls. At 5'10" with long arms, it was no issue, but my 5' 5" partner with short arms had to make some insecure moves on the second.
5.10c? Old fashioned 5.10c maybe. If I go back (and it's a long slog up to here) I'll take a couple #4 Camalots, and maybe even a #5 (for cruising up the wide bit. You are leaving a ledge, so falling on the first (wide) section would be ugly unless there is gear close by. Crux seemed to be laybacking near the top, where the crack is about 1.5" or so. Pitch three I stepped just around the corner and headed straight up the arete, about 5.10a S. Exposed, slightly licheny, reachy, but fun. Don't try this on a windy day. Especially don't try this in a thunderstorm; the summit is pockmarked with funny shattered craters from (can't possibly be falling rocks) lightning bolts. No possibility of a belay on summit, so you have to head east to the neck, and your second will follow the regular pitch 3 traverse, or else risk a huge pendulum.
Actually for gear, all you need is. . . . a set of tuber chocks (sorry)
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO May 6, 2002 rating: 5.10c PG13
I don't think a #5 camalot will fit, A #4's will however, or you could probably set in a good #4.5 camalot. The crux is near a great 2" cam anyway, a red camalot or a purple or red H.B. quadcam.
I could've sworn I managed to get a #3 Camalot in that crack by reaching deep inside it. But this was 7 years ago, maybe I did have a #4.
At the crux above I remember there is a good hold (you hope) above it, I just gunned for that hold (and barely made it). There is a short report on my ascent at:
Got on this route yesterday for the first time and thought it was harder n' sheit, It didn't feel like other 10.c's I've done in Eldo and I was glad not be leading. With a 3.5 and 4.5 camalot in the wide spot and #1 at the crux it looked well protected but watch out for a loose flake at the bottom and one at the top of the second pitch. Last pitch is fun but spooky. There was a piece of old webbing wedged behind a flake with a steel rap link on the very summit, I hope people didn't really rap off that???
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