To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
At the 2nd bolt, perhaps the P1 crux, although the...
Description
Wasabe is the route in between Psycho and Evangeline. It starts on Psycho, up to its first bolt and then trends left and up past five more bolts to the base of the big roof. This first section is typical roof-route face climbing but better protected than the others (.11a/b). The intimidating roof is next, protected by two bolts and is actually much more reasonable than it first appears. Without giving away too much beta, it involves a heel hook, a dyno, some body torquing, and some intricate footwork. One key is to climb past the second bolt in the roof and reach back to clip it once you're established at the lip.
There's a bit of a span between the first bolt in the roof and the one under it, so one might want to stuff a medium cam at the base of the roof to ease any fears. (Plus, it's a ring bolt which I've never really liked in overhangs). Once past the lip an easy move takes you to a big jug and the anchor. Unless someone is following, most people just clip in here for a rest and then climb back and jump off, cleaning the draws in the roof and then lowering off the last bolt on the face. Wasabe is the best protected of the roof-routes with lots of interesting moves up the face and out a pretty big overhang.
Protection
8 bolts (6 are ring bolts) to a bolted anchor. Possible medium cam.
It would be nice if these ring bolts were replaced with modern bolts.
The majority of people who get on this seem to just do the face. You can lower off a single bolt if you don't mind dying, or reach down from the last bolt on the face and thread the rope through the top two bolts. A pain. It would be nice if there were 2 bolts at the base of the roof to lower off of.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Apr 1, 2002
You can angle up the face to the next set of anchors and then descend. Or, you can submit a proposal to the FHRC to add a bolt for an intermediate anchor.
I certainly did not want to recommend that people lower off of a single bolt--even if it's been done many times. Climbing left to the anchors on Evangeline is the smartest and safest way to get off this route, unless you actually lower from the anchor above the roof (then you have to figure out how to follow it--exciting!). A fixed anchor at the base of the roof would solve the problem if the Park would approve. I'm not sure how strong the old ring bolts are. It would be nice to replace these as well (on this route and others). Removing them might be quite a task, and the resulting hole will be too big in diameter (~9/16") to fill with the bolts presently being used. They are driven in about 1.25" and use a cone to expand them at the back, making for questionable pull-out strength. Plus, they can be hard to clip when the ring falls flat against the surface of the rock. If someone was up to the project it would be a nice service to everyone.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Apr 4, 2002
Mark Rolofson has been and is a great (and underappre-ciated) resource to the climbing community. He has much experience removing old bolts and placing new & improved bolts at Eldorado, even on the Roof routes. I would suggest seeking his expertise in a project to upgrade the bolts here & in Eldo.
I don't know what was on the roof before, but that thing is a bunch of choss. I broke a bunch of foot holds when I was on it, and I don't think it goes anymore if you are a sub sixer.
It does go. I watched a guy do it just the other day. I don't remember there ever being much for the feet to work with on this one to begin with. True that height, could be an issue on this one, Tony.
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