This route is difficult and cruxy, but fun! Leading this route would demand confidence, as the body position at the crux moves would leave a falling leader extremely vulnerable to head or spinal injuries. I did this route on toprope, looking for protection opportunity for a future red-point along the way. After seeing the lack of protection and taking a few falls at the crux, I decided not to lead the pitch at all.
To approach Toothsheaf Transfusion, go uphill on the West Ridge just past the V-slot of Verschneidung. Climb Clear-a-Sill or Verschneidung to the strange looking pine tree. From there, either climb Toothsheaf (wandering up the overhanging face above, between the V-slot and Ghetto Blaster/White Rabbit (the dihedrals to the left) or climb one of the other routes to set a toprope.
The crux of this route comes after a section of large moves between large holds and consists of moving to the right from slopers under an overhang, onto slopers above the overhang. A fall from this position would likely result in a significant injury. Continue up and left to the rap above Ghetto Blaster.
To descend, rap Ghetto Blaster to the tree, then from the tree down to the first ledge, then scramble off.
Protection
The protection did not seem not very good and there are ledges that could cause serious injury. This pitch is debatably VS. Take an assortment of wires, cams, and tricams.
Better yet, if you don't climb 5.11X, toprope it from the anchors above Ghetto Blaster. If you don't climb 5.10X either, then climb Vershniedung to reach the summit and from there scramble to the anchor above Ghetto Blaster to hang your TR.
West Ridge - Long John to Verschneidung
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