The holds on this route are small and some are savagely sharp. A Cut Above? Yeah, I got several cut above the first knuckle. I tried this in a post-desert-trip skin-peeling state and paid dearly. After 1/2 tries I went away with 1/2 dozen sliced, oozing fingers and without a clean TR. My partner (Peter Spindloe) got it, however. Thick finger pads are required.
There is no protection on this 25' line, but the crux is done with your feet between 5-10 feet off of the ground. After that the climbing is easier.
About 15-20 feet right of the start of the first pitch of Muscular Dystrophy, set a TR (or crash pads) below the center of a vertical face with small holds. The area is accessible from a scramble on the right and a large pine tree provides a place for the TR anchor. Work your way up on difficult holds to the tree.
Protection
There isn't any. Still, the route's crux is reasonably close to the ground and the landing is flat. This is originally a T.R., but would make a reasonable boulder problem with a few crash pads, or a 'headpoint' after [rehearsal].
By Jay van Sam From: Denver CO 3 hours ago rating: V5
I thought this was a fun little problem. I did it on tr, but it would be more fun with some crash pads and a spotter. Crux moves are down low, which would make the top out a little easier on the head. Impossible looking face, until i started climbng and holds started to magically appear.
RSS Feed
