The climb is pretty straighforward, aside from being rather dirty. For most of it I made it harder by seeing how much I could climb out on the face to avoid sticking my hands in the dihedral.
We climbed it because "it was right there," but would probably have been better off moving to different section of rock and not wasting our time.
Protection
Well protected - medium gear. Belay from a tree or the bolts on the face to the left.
The first two thirds of this climb are pretty good. Then it gets bad. The crack is full of dirt and moss after that. You have to move left to the tree or the bolts because if you don't the rope runs right across a slopping ledge with a plethora of brick sized rocks. Your partner and anyone else at the bottom is in danger. I would not do this climb again.
Come'on, guys, it's not that bad. This is a perfectly enjoyable climb for people breaking into eldo 5.7: it's soft at the grade, has totally bomber protection at the crux, and it's not crowded.
This climb is lots of fun for a 5.7 and much easier than its sidekick Mescaline. I agree with James, I good choice for one of your earlier 5.7 leads in Eldo....it is a confidence builder. You gotta be careful of the loose rocks on the higher ledges and if toproping, I suggest setting up a back up anchor to save stress on the tree....it is a small tree.
I think this climb is worth a visit at the very least. It's a perfect 25 meters, and fun to run up as a warm-up for Mescaline. Don't be fooled though, this 5.7 is MUCH easier than its neighbor. "New-school" 5.7 right next to a "Old-school" 5.7, so make sure you check the FA dates.~Wm
Maybe it's getting cleaner with traffic - I didn't notice much loose stuff (and I would have easily been able to clean it up if there hadn't been a crowd at the base). There's a decent rap station at the tree. Pretty soft 5.7 but a lot of fun.
Did it today, and I thought the bottom of the route didn't protect well at all. Before the crux, there is a super bomber #1 Camalot in the top pocket. I didn't like this climb that much. The moves seemed awkward, and it was really a 1 move wonder. Mescaline is much better.
RSS Feed
