Conversions 

FA:  Matt Samet, Steve Levin New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.12 [details] Length:  1 pitch Views: 376 page views Submitted By: msamet on Dec 7, 2001 Add Photo  Add Comment

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2 hooks & a 'Birdbeak', all duct taped

Description 

This is a new route that climbs the smooth black and green face forming the left wall of the first pitch of The Side Wall (just left of Unbroken Chain). It can easily be toproped from the good double-bolt anchor atop the first pitch of The Side Wall. It was established headpoint style and the first two pieces were pre-rigged on top-rope.

The lower face is the crux, mentally and physically. A crimpy stand-up moves caps the sequence and deposits you on a ledge. Lean right and load up the flake on Unbroken Chain, then climb the arete via its less steep left side to the anchors on The Side Wall.

The Sidewall alcove is a nice warm hang on winter days, especially if the sun is out.

Protection 

Two crashpads, RPs and stoppers, small TCUs and a skyhook.