To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
This excellent route is just to the right of The Grand Course on the West Ridge of Redgarden. It has two pitches, but it is better to do the first pitch of Silver Raven followed by the 11a pitch of Grand Course.
Climb up the chimney on the right for about twenty feet. Place nuts out left from an insecure position and then traverse into the crux. Fire that, then get ready for a burly, awkward section just afterward (llb) to a much appreciated stance. Easier finger jams lead to a belay ledge where you are required to build your own anchor. David A. Turner
IF YOU DON'T WANT WAY TOO MUCH BETA DON'T READ THIS
I think the pro on this is actually quite good but can be somewhat strenuous to place. From a stance you can clip a fixed bomber small stopper in the corner and then add several more. These protect the initial part of the crux and the highest is no lower than your feet when you place the next gear. A small cam and some stoppers can be placed from a pumpy stance on good holds in the corner. The next corner above takes very small cams well and 'over-your-head' stoppers. If you finish on the GRAND COURSE you might try placing something like a #2 or #3 Camalot in a short slot at the crux-the alternative is a wobbly nut. I didn't have the big cam when I did it a few months ago so I'm just guessing. You can find a rap anchor up and left from the end of GRAND COURSE, it's the top of PARIS GIRL.
There are 2 different rap anchors on the broken ledge atop these routes- both are slings around trees. The right-most is directly above Paris Girls, and requires 2 ropes to get down. The other anchor is a bit left from here, and if you rap more into the gully left (careful of loose rock) it is possible to get off with a single 60m rope.
I think the "s" on this route is another leftover from the early 80's when there were no micro cams. Going up on this route with a couple sets of TCU's and Aliens feels much more comforting than the thought of using nuts alone. Even with the new gear, this is a challenging lead as the gear is below your feet when climbing through the crux, and is very strenuous to place up high. (OK, maybe it still deserves and "s") This route -- finishing on the .11a crux of Grand Course -- can be led in one long, pumpy pitch from the ground. Wow!
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Jul 30, 2006 rating: 5.11d
Absolutely spectacular climb. Great position and movement. Linked with the 2nd pitch of Grand Course creates a stellar line. One of Eldo's best!
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