Beth Sholes cleans the gaping Funeral March, in El...
Description
Does this route deserve two stars? Well, it depends. Do you really like offwidth?
Not sure and want to find out? ...Then this is your route! Stack a fist, [chicken-wing], heal-toe cam, arm-bar, foot stack. Leavitate? Well, no. This climb does not require a comprehensive set of Offwidth techniques, but it is a good place to learn of practice many of them. It will also amaze you how good of an aerobic workout you can get while still moving so slowly.
Go up the West Ridge to the Cirque of the Cracks area and find the popular routes Terminal Velocity and Hand Crack. This will be after quite a long uphill, in an area with very little slope. Just to the right (south) of the route Hand Crack, at the right hand side of the same solid buttress, is this 6" wide splitter. This route is unique in [character] and should not be at all hard to identify. Climb easy moves up and into the vertical wall with the small cap/roof for an off width challenge. The route can be safely lead with just a few large pieces, but for comfort, take your [arsenal] and place at will. If you need OW gear, contact Eric Corkran.
There are anchors nearby at the top from which to descend.
Protection
Large, big, and Huge will be most helpful. The crack is 6" average. Large cams (#4-5 Camalot) and Bigbros or Tubechocks are the best idea. A few standard pieces will go as well.
Easier than the off-width on the Grand Giraffe. I was glad to have 2 #6 Camalots and a blue Big Bro. The flake in the crack you can place smaller gear in is loose. This is a good climb if you enjoy a little groveling.
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