To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Bob Horan crankin the crux mantle move on Fire and...
Description
Originally, a scary aid line in the 60s, Fire and Ice became an awesome technical face climbing test-piece for the 80s to today. Three modern bolts protect three uniquely different "crux" sections. As with other "Roof Routes", F+I is rather height-dependent, and it's interesting to see how different people decipher the moves. I will tell you that you better fine tune your high stepping, mantling and crimping skills...
The route does continue through the roof (slightly down and right) and past the right facing corner (11+?), Alec Sharp.
Also, the first bolt was not originally there; for the aid ascent nor for early free attempts (and ground falls).
If you do P1 of Psycho and want an interesting TR: Climb F+I to the second bolt and traverse left diagonally upward to Psycho's anchors (led by Alec Sharp!).
Apparently, a hold just before the anchor on P1 broke off, and the climbing has become more difficult.
This route just got a whole heck of a lot harder this weekend. I ripped off the only good hold between the last bolt and the anchor. The move now is going to be a desperate high step mantle with jack for hand holds. And not to mention that you will be standing a nice little bit above the last bolt. While this was already a technical and excellent slab route, it is now way harder (the crux will be getting to the anchors) and with a little more sketch to it.
If it used to be 11d (definite sandbag), it is now probably around mid 12.
Before and after the broken hold, this route is an amazing piece of slab climbing.
Three stars...but My 2 cents is: despite a high quality sport route, the grade is 100% wrong. A 5.11 Eldo or sport climber should not get on this thinking it will be a good time. I climb mid-12 sport, mid-11 Eldo gear, V6 bouldering; there were moves I just couldn't pull. Normally I would pass this off as stylistic and personal differences, however my friend Tony (who climbs 13c Rifle, and on-sights mid to upper 12) took two days of projecting F&I. Jeff Cloud thought it was 12c, before the flake pulled, and Pat Adams himself thought it was pretty ridiculous in hindsight when I asked him about it. Just a thought, but when the first acentionist thinks it's probably wrong, it might be time to modernize the rating. Traditionalism or not.
By Zed From: Gotham City Aug 3, 2007 rating: 5.12a
I agree that a 5.11 climber would have his or her hands full on this route, although 12c is way off. I onsighted this route pretty easily, in 1990, right after taking three tries to stick the crux of Downpressor Man. There was no stopper move on the route - just sustained and relatively thin climbing most of the way.
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