As a moderate lead, it fails on two distinct counts. 1) Loose Rock, dangerous to both climber and belayer. 2) A runout third pitch, the last pitch up the "huge dihedral." I felt a 40+ foot fall was definitely possible.
The first pitch, as Rossiter says, ascends "indistinct terrain" and is characterized by loose rock. We were hoping for 3 solid pitches in the 5.7 dihedral. Yes, there were some good moves, especially on the bulges in the 2nd pitch, but the runout 3rd and the additional loose rock in the 4th pitch made this an unappealing climb.
Note that trees are everywhere, and you could wrap off this at any point with a single rope.
Protection
Up to a #4.5 Camalot. A couple of double length slings are helpful on the first, wandering pitch.
Where is the route? You can't miss Sunstar, which is just to the right. The chimney and chockstone are obvious. To get on Lost in Space, go just to the L in the funky, inset chimney, or you can go 20 or 30 feet further L, which I didn't do. Once you are at the first belay, you are looking up at that massive dihedral.
Funny. Rossiter also describes a last-pitch variation to Outer Space that he calls Lost in Space. A direct linkup from OS to upper Redgarden would be an impressive send.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Jan 6, 2006 rating: 5.8
This is actually a decent route if done by the best line. Here's how we did it on a warm and windy January day:
Start: At the chimney/corner just left of Disappearing Act.
p1. 5.7 115': Climb the chimney and corner up to the tree atop Disappearing Act (rap slings and rings on the tree).
p2. 5.8 180': Climb past a loose ledge to a corner system. Continue past several bulges to a V-corner. Climb the corner, with some sections of slightly runout pro, grass, and lichen, to a ledge.
p3. 5.7 60': Climb up the face to the left, then work right to the corner, and climb past a bulge to a tree at the top. Watch for loose rock.
Descent: It's possible to rappel, but better to do the standard west face descent (same as for Green Spur, Rewritten, etc.).
Done this way, the climb is fun and worth at least one star. Some slightly runout climbing on the second pitch and some loose rock on the third pitch, but lots of good climbing along the way.
I just did this one 3/25/08 and I agree with Ron's description of the climb. This is a fun climb, worth more than a star, maybe 2-3 IMHO.
There is some loose rock on the first pitch. My partner (a careful climber) knocked one down towards me by accident. But this is to be expected when climbing in the mountains. Redgarden Wall isn't supposed to be a roadside, bouldering park.
The V-dihedral has some grass in it and it's definitely an 8 there.
The walk off left is easy. No reason to rap this route.
It was 65-70s this March afternoon, and it felt downright hot on the rock. Definitely doable in winter.
Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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