Breakfast Of Champions 

FA:  [S Wunsch & J Erickson] Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.11- [details] Length:  1 pitch Views: 312 page views Submitted By: Tony B on May 1, 2001 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Raptor Nesting Closure Info MORE INFO >>> To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier. This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Bob Horan on Breakfast of Champions.

Description 

The climb is near the "Pick Pocket Wall," on Redgarden, just up and left of the more difficult Captain Crunch.

Go up the Redgarden trail as if approaching the normal classics by the Yellow Spur, but instead of walking quite so far, stop just as you turn the corner to head up the hill, and look at the wall to your right. This west facing wall has several short lines on it, only a few of which are any good.

Breakfast of Champions is one of those few good lines, and it is pretty easy for its given grade of 5.11a. I would have suggested 5.10c, but if you bobble with the gear, your nerves may add to the perceived difficulty.

Spot the line by the obvious chalked crack- move up and through some poor rock at the bottom to harder and more solid rock on pinches and clings above. After a few placements and a few long moves up the overhang, you will find yourself on a runout thin slab, with anchors just beyond reach. Make the commitment and get to the anchors.

This route can easily be toproped, but walking up to set the rope might then be the crux. A slippery, soft, hill-full of aggressive ants and shrubs is the back-side, so leading and following seems to be the nicer option to me.

Protection 

The protection is a little bit dicey, but not all together horrible. A few cams and stoppers provide saftey, but might be pumpy to place unless you are used to overhangs.