To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
This is one of my favorite routes in this part of Eldo. I like the challenging climbing, the position, and the 'minimalist' use of bolts. Most people think it's hard for .11a and has a couple 'cruxes'. My main reason for posting is to report that one of the two belay bolts has broken off. This is a useful rappel anchor for the routes Pilgrim (10d) and Walk the Talk (9+) also. Both of those routes are good and well worth doing also. From this belay, a 40' 5.5 pitch up and right takes you to the anchors on Blacktop from which you can rap to the ground via the anchors on Night if you have a 60 meter rope. A 50 meter rope may work but you'll have to end further up on Pseudo-Sidetrack and descend from there.
The broken anchor bolt was replaced and rap rings/links installed during the Celebrate Eldo weekend 2002. This route is as good as any on the Blackwalk wall, and definitely a sandbag at 11a.
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