To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Heel hooking to make the reach to the second bucke...
Description
This route is located to the left of Mr Natural. It is better thought of as a top-rope route, since the first real pro is after the crux. This route can be easily TR'ed after making an ascent of Mr Natural (8+).
Make some delicate moves under the overhang to a break which about 5 feet to the right of the arete. Pull the overhang on good holds (crux), and cruise the easier textured rock above. If you blow the crux on lead, you would land on a large boulder on your back. Descent: Rap from the tree directly above the line. (60 feet)
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Feb 1, 2002 rating: 5.9+ R
Getting started seemed to be the crux, and felt a little hard for 5.9.
A variation boulder problem start (just a few moves) is to pull onth the arete from underneith the left hand side of the base of the arete, essentially doing a big overhang move to gain the arete. This will probably feel like 5.10d. We called this boulder-problem start "Captain 4Z" at the time.
"Captain 4Q" was apparently a comic and/or a character in a comic. Found only this on Google:"my list ...includes the forbidden fruit of EC Comics, Wonder Warthog, Captain 4Q, and other subversive intelligentsia."
By Phil Lauffen From: Boulder May 8, 2009 rating: 5.10a R
Fun TR from Mr. Natural. I didn't see any possible gear placements.
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