Diffraction 

Just wanted to stress the loose rock warning. My partner snapped a jug just past the crux and hit the ledge. Be careful.

Yeah, Kyle named it Gatorade & Tequila as the aid climb. I walked up as he and Charlie were finishing freeing it. Kyle wanted to rename it as a free climb. I suggested since it's next to Rainbow Wall, why not...

Bring a Screamer for the bashie. Easier(?) beta for the roof: Lean left off the slanting handholds. Put both(!) knees on the low angle left facing corner. Step up.

Worthwhile as an approach to Metamorphosis and as an historical fixed gear tour.

Did this yesterday with Snipes, and found it to be solid 5.10 at the crux, especially in light of the creepy gear. The pin and the bolt are both ca. 1985 and should be replaced with like gear, although the bolt should be placed lower so you can clip from the crux holds.

The climb has gotten a little easier with the dropping of the big rock above the bashie (Dec 2000?), and now a good right-hand side pull replaces the former crux. The climb still grades 5.10a but is less of a sandbag. I loaded the climb up with gear, although this did include a few dubious pieces, for the most part I felt that it was reasonably well protected. As it dumped rain on me while I was climbing, the route was soaked by the time my partner followed it. The pieces were good/close enough such that: A) my 5'5" partner could aid the route on the gear I had set. B) None of them pulled on rope tension or on aid. Obviously. that's not tha same as a lead fall, but I believe the gear was that good as well. The route is rated 'S' not so much for any [inherent] danger, but more for the effort and trickery required to get so much gear at a reasonable quality.

2 stars, in my book, a fun pitch with unique movement and some puzzling protection options.

5.10a seems fair in the route's present state. I think it was winter of Y2K when the big block (300#) pulled out and the route is easier now.

I don't think that the fixed rurp need be replaced. Down and right of it are some OK placements for clean trad gear and the 'new' piece might not be as good as the old, as the rock may deteriorate or the placement might just not be as good. I'd venture to say leave what is proven for now.

The old bolt has been replaced. Thanks to Greg Hand for coming out to Eldo on such a windy day to...lend a hand.

Fun climb with interesting moves. 10a seems about right. I felt it protected well where needed.

Thanks for replacing the bolt.
This makes a great first pitch into Metamorphosis. As good as it gets in Eldo, for the grade and a two pitch combo...on the spicy side :-).

Pretty cool route and a good approach to Metamorphosis. Clipping the antique gear (RURP, pin, copper-head) adds a little spice to the moves.

Boy, Forrest copperheads, I remember many placements of those that didn't exactly bring my heart rate down! They had bigger wires than the stoppers of the same size, but the stiffness of those wires could make them pop out if you had rope drag problems. I used to have a picture of a belayer with about 3 of those that slid down the rope to the belayers left hand. He was looking at the sharp end of the rope intensely with that "could you please get something bomber in?" look on his face.

Not as spicy as others have said. Found the route quite protectable. Easy climbing for the first 20 ft up the slab to 15 ft of fun 5.10- to 5.9 climbing to the base of Meta.