Can't tell, but leading the climb, crux was not ha...
Description
This route starts as an obvious thin-hands crack on the south-west overhang of Supremacy Rock. The crack leans right and overhangs significantly. The key to this climb is footwork, unless you have small hands (I do) which make the climb easier. On my first attempt I sliced the back of one hand open, however, and only completed the route after coming down and taping up. I recommend taping up for your first go at it.
Protection
Fingers to thin-hands. This can be led on stoppers alone, but will be pumpy without cams. You hang out longer trying to place good stoppers.
The route can be TR'd from fixed anchors and gear if you walk up the rock from behind, to the East end of the South side of the rock. There would be a large swing potential if you fall low, but it seems to be quite safe.
Steep stuff. Lots of history here for a short route. Candidate for the first 5.11 to go free in Colorado, although some controversy surrounded Ament's initial claim to have freed it. (He subsequently led the pitch without the "few moments' rest" on a piton.) Peter Croft onsighted the thing... free solo.
Agreed. I was able to garner a plenty-sufficient pump on TR. I think of what it must have been like placing slung square-sided nuts back in the day and am reminded yet again how spoiled we are today. Generation SLCD.
Not coincidentally, that day of Ament's "FFA" also saw the introduction, by the visiting Don Whilans and Royal Robbins, of clean pro to Eldorado. Various of Ament's books (High Over Boulder, for one) provide memorable images of that day. A trio of climbing legends on Ruper.
Definitely tape up before you get on! I took two scary falls and also sliced the backs of both hands as a result. Sharp rock. I wonder if climbs w_ll ever get WT and WOT grades in the future? :) Killer climb though. Inspired by Jeff Acheys book "Climb" to give it a try. First lead was with hammer and pitons according to it.
The first photo here is hilarious! It reminds me of that famous photo of John Sherman apparently soloing some desperate Aussie line with a full bottle of beer on one hand... Thanks, Mic!
Insanely Awesome. I consider myself a fairly strong crack climber, but this thing whooped my ass something proper. This is the first Eldo 11 I've tried to lead, and now is the nostalgic ground of my first real whips on gear. I'll be back for it. I refuse to consider myself a real climber until I can solo this climb in flip flops.
I was pleased to TR this thing, more years ago than I'll admit, with only one fall down low. The swing was memorable and fun! My one-legged partner, on the other hand, did it free and clean. I still don't have an excuse!
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