To protect nesting and roosting sites of falcons, Redgarden Wall from the Naked Edge (pitch 3 – top) through Sidetrack is closed from February 1st – July 31st or until further notice. Occasionally, these closures are lifted earlier.
This includes the following routes: • The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only) • The Diving Board • Centaur • Redguard (last three pitches) • Semi-Wild • Anthill Direct (last three pitches) • The Sidetrack
Paris Girl defines the early 1980s approach to bolting in Eldo: enough to keep you from decking, and no more (although if you blow a clip on this one...). It is an excellent and difficult face climb with significant whipper potential. The scene of much controversy after it was put up (it was the first Eldo climb protected exclusively by rap-placed bolts), the recent vandalism of several hangers (all now replaced) suggests it is still a flashpoint in the tedious Boulder "bolt wars".
PG takes the obvious bolted line on the steep and blank wall right of Disappearing Act, just beyond Darkness 'til Dawn. Take a deep breath, then punch it on unprotected and difficult climbing to the first bolt (dangerous). The crux starts here: a series of crimpy moves up and right past the 2nd bolt to a long reach with whipper potential. The holds are crispy, and some rock deterioration has occurred, making the climbing closer to 5.13a then 5.12d...for example, PG is harder than The Sacred and the Profane on Peanuts, rated 12d/13a in the current Eldo guide. After the crux the climbing eases slightly, passing a bulging 5.12 section, then the micro-edge slab above (5.12a at the start) to a big runout on 5.11a climbing and the anchors.
A workable strategy here is to warmup on Disappearing Act, then set a TR (two ropes) to work the route before the redpoint attempt. Extra points for those brave enough to jump on it with no rehearsal. A good edging shoe is helpful. Cool, crisp temperatures also help; excessive amounts of coffee prior to your redpoint attempt won't.
Background: In May of 2001, a flyer popped up at Neptune's saying ...._500 reward from ACE (Action Committee for Eldorado) "to anyone who provide evidence that leads to the arrest or conviction of the person or persons who vandalized and sabotaged the bolts on Paris Girls."
I don't know if they ever caught the idiot who did this.
I'd just like to add that Steve Levin, although I've never met him, has certainly the most impressive list of contributions to the site. Any climber who completes even a fraction of these routes really has his or her act together.
For the record, it is Paris Girl, not "Girls," named after a specific 13-year-old Lolita-ish Parisian in rollerskates photographed by Charlie Fowler beneath the Eiffel Tower. The photo was later shown to the impressionable and imaginative first ascenscionist, who was hopelessly smitten.
Say - have any of you read Jim Beyer's rant in Alpinist 8 about Paris Girl? He claims that it was chipped. Anybody know of the truth or lie behind that?
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