Star Wars 

WASPS in the area. We started climbing at 9 AM this morning with the intent of doing Star Wars in 1 pitch. However, at the first belay ledge area, my wife called up that there were 10-20 wasps around her, so I brought her up. By the time I was near the top of the climb, she was being swarmed again, and they were up by me at the top as well.

Fortunately, we made it off the climb quickly by 10:15 AM before the sun really warmed them up.

Upon return to the base, I could not spot the nest, but we sure did experience their numbers.

Definitely do this climb EARLY in the morning if you are afraid of WASP WARS!

Forgot to mention, while starting up the awesome 2nd pitch we heard a huge CRACK and looked across the canyon at Redgarden and saw 2 HUGE chunks of rock falling thru the air from somewhere around Yellow Spur area...a couple more CRACKS and it was over...SCARY...it was around 6pm, and if it was a weekend someone or a few folks would have died for sure. I don't know if it was precipitated by anything (a climber) or if it was intentional (highly doubt this). Anyone else know anything about this or if it affected any climbs on Redgarden west????

This is an atypical crack pitch for Eldo. A parallel hand crack with nothing for the feet except to jam the crack. This is a burly and sustained 40ft. of 5.8 jamming. A 2.5 Friend is the perfect size for this crack.

It seems like I climbed this route every few weeks one summer -- my favorite 5.8 in Eldo. Highly recommend doing it as one pitch (but long, like Matt said).

I also think that doing it as one pitch is the best way. The crack was a great jammer without many rest spots. I also really enjoyed the exit at the top of the 5.8 crack. Highly recommended for crack lovers.

Here's a fun way to end an evening that a friend showed me - instead of the final roof and belay from the summit, put in some pro to protect the second and hand traverse left once above the hand crack. Very Airy traverse! - You can then belay from the bolt anchors on Forbidden Planet (try topping that stellar line if you like). Easy two rap down to the ledge instead of a hike.

Good route! It is possible to add some quality climbing by doing a short 1st pitch right off the trail instead of going up to the ramp and then back down. The pitch is an obvious crack that goes straight up off the trail for 15 feet then hand traverses right then up a finger crack. It starts directly below the obvious crack on pitch two of Star Wars. It is about 50 feet long and probably 5.9+, watch for a loose block during the hand traverse....

Nice climb. Wasn't sure where to start... we did the off-width that's up around the corner from Trouble and Strife. Nice varied, easy climbing to the base of the second pitch...

Awesome climb. The second pitch of Star Wars offers good hand jamming and laybacking. Definately, bring hand size pro for the second pitch. Have fun!

Somewhat unique Eldo climb, with good pro...highly recommend.

(There sure are a lot of 'Chris's registered on this site...Anyway-) What a beauty! I followed this a couple of years ago and have been itching to get back on it on lead...which I did yesterday with, ironically, Chris Drumwright.

Only one substantial comment-watch out for the 'oh-so-nearly-so-perfect' big chock stone in the V slot as one pulls the small roof on P2. I'd hate to see it levered out of there. Enjoy! Don't forget those extra #1 and #2 (and 2.5?) Camalots if you're into sewing up the hand crack! And Chris would say that having big hands makes the climb suck a little bit.

Beautiful and varied climbing -- and very fun squirming up the v-chimney.

Wow, great crack pitch! Too short tho. 3 comments - there are foot holds (small ones, yes) on the left face. I pretty sure I only jammed my right foot most of the way and smeared or stood on nubbins on the left. Also, I thought the crack exit was more of a layback than a mantle. If you sew up the crack and don't want to run it out, you might want to save a #1 Camalot (possibly .75) for the 5.6 slot/crack above. I had some crappy hexes in there. It's easy 5.6, but would still make for a long fall.

The variation to the first pitch I suggested is called Trouble and Strife.

I can't comment on the rating because it seems to me that different guides really describe this one differently. I climbed 4 variations between Home Free and Your Basic Lieback (also good). One post names one variation but does not describe it. They go at .7 to about .9+ . Does anyone have more beta?

Star Wars proved to be a great climb almost every inch of the way.I'm fairly new to leading 5.8s and I found the crux to be challenging and sustained.As Clint mentioned, bring extra cams if you like sewing it up. I found that I was recycling my #2 cam all the way. Next time, I might bring several of that size.The v-slot above the 8 crack was quite interesting.

This was great - we climbed it twice. great protection all the way up (Camalots #0.75, 1 and 2 (bring a couple #2s) and a couple of Aliens - yellow and red. Nuts are useful too) The first 20 feet are on solid holds, the crack is Perfect (#2 Camalots) and the v-slot above it is actually a lot easier than it looks since you can use good holds on the face and on the arete. A #1 and/or a .75 camalot protects the v-slot. Once you're above the v-slot and over a small and easy roof it is a scramble on big holds to the top (you could run this out pretty safely if you're out of gear) The climb is easily do-able in one pitch - it's about 100 feet to the top.On the approach I was walking around at the base of the base of peanut wall and looking at rossiter's topo for about 10 minutes before my friend yelled down from a ledge about 15 feet above to let me know that the climb started up there. So once you reach the base of the wall, hike up and right in order to get on top of a ledge which is at the base of the route. Now that you have all this info you probably don't even need to go climb it!

Great route! Easy approach, nice after work climb.

I was expecting a much better route from the description. The fun hands section is probably 25 feet long - the rest is not all that exciting or enjoyable. There was a fixed Tech Friend at the bottom of the hand crack that will likely come out without too much work. I could not booty it, but not for lack of trying. My hands were too big to really work the lobes, but they all 4 moved. Booty for some lucky dog.

I agree with the previous comment. This route wasn't all that amazing from the boasting I have heard. I would say it "looks" better than it tastes. The hand crack looks really cool but only offers a couple moves and were a little wide at the top for my hands.

Unlike Liebgott and Johnson, I found the entire climb exciting and enjoyable. If you are looking for long crack climbs, Eldo is the wrong place. The route has a nice mix of face climbing, crack climbing with a few contortionist maneuvers that keep it fun.

This route affords a spectacular view of Redgarden. As you make your way up, enjoy watching parties ascend classic routes like the Yellow Spur, Ruper, Anthill Direct, Rewritten, etc.

As for gear, take singles up to a #1 Camalot and two #2 Camalots. You don't need anything larger. A purple and an orange Alien protect the off-width section.

Great route. The uniform crack on P2 makes for some strenuous laybacking on P2 depending on handsize.

Climbed this today (on second). Nice first pitch from the lower ledge (5.7). Fun jugs just where you need them (gotta love Eldo!). The exit onto the ledge under the hand crack was sweet. I found the hand crack a little strenuous. Upper half I said "Screw it" and laybacked the final moves into the V-slot above. Of course, this is probably easier on second. The V-slot and notch through the roof were pretty funky, but fun. All in all, a terrific 2-pitches. For descent, it seems that scrambling south to the notch up there is the way to go.

When we first climbed this lovely, atypical (for Eldorado) crack in '77, it was the location (high above the river) and the curved geometry of the crack and dihedral that intrigued us. At first glance, we felt it would be somewhat more difficult than 5.8; however, the jams were secure and by Yosemite standards it is quite short. We had no camming devices, but it accepted nuts easily. The students were stoked to do a first and Paul Sibley confirmed the 5.8 rating the next day.
I still feel it is worth the approach.
Kevin Donald

What a great climb. I would highly recommend this to any level climber.