The Kloof Alcove is a short but very overhanging wall of nicely featured sandstone on the west side of the large gully leading up to the Yellow Spur etc. It faces due west and holds good shade until noon or one during the hotter months.
The routes here are steep and pumpy with little or no fixed protection. Though the routes often follow overhanging crack systems, the climbing takes place primarily on buckets and face holds. Fixed anchors at the top of the left side of the wall facilitate top-roping and lowering.
A new route, Iron Monkey (formerly known as Lycra Clad Donkeys), located here may be the most difficult route here in the Canyon.
Getting There
Approach as for the West Face of Redgarden Wall. About halfway to the base of Yellow Spur a signed trail branches left to the Kloof Alcove. Follow it.
Total approach time: 15 minutes.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kloof Alcove:
Locate the start of Kloof and boulder up the jugs to the ledge. Jam and layback straight up the groove to the second chalked-up jug rail.... Place bomber pro and launch off on the crux sequence (Hopefully clipping a fixed nut along the way-if you are a super strong, bold, upside down enduro master then it won't matter if the nut's not there). After the nut is the best 3 feet of steep jamming in Eldo.... Weave out left and up to the ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
The grade of 14a / 8a+ is correct, BUT...free name variation Iron Monkey was given by the 3rd? ascentionist who thought he was the first. First ascentionist?? (it IS an obvious line in Eldo) Raphael Daly named it Noir, after an anime series. I prefer to call it the original, Lycra Clad Donkeys (err...Asses).
It's beyond me why anyone would want to change a name as sweet as Lycra Clad Donkeys. Lycra Clad Monkeys might however be a suitable compromise. I just like the image.
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