There are two smaller, N facing crags that make up the Peanuts Walls -Upper and Lower. This division covers the Upper Peanuts Wall for organizational purposes. Here you will find routes from 1-4 pitches in length. No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult. This crag has an advantage of shade in the summer heat and, as a result, has some of the most striking lichens (see photo to the right) in all of Eldorado Canyon. Here, you may feel the feeling of being up with the birds while still close to the ground. Also, there are benefits of some element of isolation with excellent views of the entire northern half of Eldorado Canyon, in particular Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge.
While no climb here is likely to be top twenty in Eldorado Canyon, you can find delightful terrain for traditional-oriented, moderate climber. Some of the gems here include: Heavy Weather, 5.9; The Cruise, 5.9; Gravity's Angel, 5.11b; Sunrider, 5.11b; and the runout Advanced Rockcraft, 5.12b vs.
Note there is still some loose rock here in places. Helmets may be advisable.
Descents involve either rappelling or walkoff/scramble off to the climber's right.
Note, this is not a child nor dog friendly area.
Getting There
There are several ways of approaching the wall. The easiest access is achieved by parking at the western end of the park, possibly at the Rattlesnake Gulch trailhead (about 150m West of the Milton Boulder). Then, head east on this nearly-flat, Fowler Trail probably 1/4 mile until you are below these two crags. Ascend a non-erosive path up the talus field with some boulder hopping to Lower Peanuts. Continue around to the right and upwards to Upper Peanuts Wall.
The other way of getting here is to hike up the Bastille Trail then head West until you're below the talus field.
EXCELLENT 2 pitch or one long pitch up the beautiful Lower Peanuts wall. Scramble to the far right and up onto the first ledge (lots of loose talus...be careful). Find a large, obtuse corner just below a perfect handcrack in a steep left-facing dihedral (many obtuse corners so make sure you see the obvious handcrack above, some of these other corners have scary pro and are much harder).P1. Climb the corner with variable crack and fingers at top...[more]
Peanuts is one of the few areas in Eldo that is always not in the sun. It can be unpleasant to climb there in the winter due to the snow and ice that collects on the North Faces, although some of the routes face more Westwardly, and are nice in the mid-afternoon. This same condition makes Peanuts a hot summer morning destination. Although the best rotues are both high quality and easy to find and access, others are difficult to find, or are not well described. One particular Route, Cardinal Richeleau (5.8+, _) is an unpleanant death route, at best.
For better or worse (depending upon your perspective), the Trail Crew is active along the base of Lower Peanuts right now and progressing upwards. They are working about the level of Home Free right now. They're doing a great job - if you like 'enhanced' approached trails. If you want to take advantage of their work, take the Fowler Trail to the big talus slope as usual and aim for the low point of Lower Peanuts where the 'new version' of the trail begins.
Sounds like a crew is on top of it, but I would think that with the amount of cash the park gets from entrance fees that a trail would have been made a while ago. The errosion in the area is out of control. Try and stay on the talus.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Sep 25, 2003
The trail work on Peanuts Wall appears to be finished, at least for this year. The constructed trail starts at the top of the talus field by the center of the lower wall, and heads up the right side to the start of Star Wars. Above that, the old loose climber's path continues up to the descent gully.
The park needs more money for trail work. There were significant cuts in state funding this year, which limited what could be done.This spring, the Action Committee for Eldorado contributed $8000 to Eldorado for trail work. Most of the money ACE contributes is raised by the annual Celebrate Eldorado event; this year's eventwas held a few weeks ago.
If you didn't participate in Celebrate Eldorado (and even if you did), you can help improve Eldorado trails by sending a contribution to:
Action Committee for EldoradoPO Box 337Eldorado Springs, CO 80025
See the ACE website, http://www.aceeldo.org, for more information about ACE and its activites.
Ron, then why did they lower the entrance fee to $5, from $6. Last time I was up there we gave the ranger $6 and he gave us a buck back and said they'd lowered the fee. Not that I want to pay high fees, but I'm curious given your comments.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Sep 25, 2003
Anonymous Coward writes: "Ron, then why did they lower the entrance fee to $5, from $6. Last time I was up there we gave the ranger $6 and he gave us a buck back and said they'd lowered the fee. Not that I want to pay high fees, but I'm curious given your comments."
The daily vehicle fee in Eldorado is $6 May 1 through Labor Day, and $5 the rest of the year. Most state parks have a $5 fee year round; only Eldorado, Boyd Lake, Chatfield, and Cherry Creek raise the fee to $6 for the summer season. See http://parks.state.co.us/old_root_directory/daily_vehicle_pa>>>>> for a complete list of state parks and daily vehicle fees.
Umm, help. Upper Peanuts Wall will soon be closed. Permanently.
It is owned by Boulder City. Under the proposed new OSMP Visitor Plan, a number of local crags will be shut down forever. Mickey Mouse is the largest. Others include Continental Crag (up above Peanuts), Upper Peanuts Wall, The Sacred Cliffs.
Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks have presented this proposal to Boulder City Council. Boulder City Council will discuss this on Tuesday 14th December.
Please phone or email the Boulder City Council Members (who love to hear from people about issues like this) that this is unacceptable.
Show up this Tuesday, Dec 14th at 6:00pm at Council Chambers (Broadway and Canyon). Bring a friend, or two, or eight. Let's pack the room.
Maybe we can take a break from the bolt chopping discussion and concentrate our efforts into keeping some great crags open. I just got off the phone with City Council member Gordon Riggle who, by the way, seemed very receptive to our access concerns. He told me the single most effective way to get our voices heard by City Council was to give them a call. Crusher Bartlett provided the phone numbers in his Upper Peanuts post dated 12/12/04. Please call to voice your opposition to the OSMP Visitor Plan before it's too late!!!
Upper Peanuts
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