BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...
Description
This popular rock can be divided in character into its south and southwest face. The SW face has some of the most frequently climbed routes in Eldorado Canyon and is probably the best area in Eldorado Canyon for those seeking lower end difficulty climbing. The rock is stellar for the first two pitches of climbs on this face. Above this the rock has seen less traffic and still has loose rock for the unsuspecting climber.
Famous climbers have been climbing this rock since the early 1950s. On occasion, you may find yourself face-to-face with a legendary climber soloing on by you as enjoy this rock.
Ultra-classics such as Calypso, 5.6 and Wind Ridge, 5.6 are great for beginners but often have long queues, please be patient. Pitch 3 of Wind Ridge has one of the most interesting roofs in all of Eldorado Canyon. Other good lines include Breezy, 5.4; The Bomb, 5.4; Boulder Direct, 5.5; the irascible Tigger, 5.5; Recon, 5.6; Reggae, 5.8; Wind Tower Slab, 5.9 TR; the slippery Tagger, 5.10b/c; and the impressive Salvation, 5.12a/b s.
Note, that according to Park statistics, Calypso is one of the most hazardous routes in the park, so protect it well.
Getting There
The approach takes an arduous 5 min. from the parking lot. Take the bridge across S. Boulder Creek, then take the marked path up to the wall. Please stay on the path since it is well built to minimize erosion and rock slide.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wind Tower - SW Face:
Commonly rated at 5.8, but the crux is short, and it is not really any harder than Bastille Crack. Start from the belay above the first pitch of Calypso. Step right a few feet, then head up the obvious dihedral. Finish over a tricky rock into a ledge with a large rock resting over it. You can continue to the summit or traverse the strata to the left to the walkoff of Wind Ridge. The easiest exit is to downclimb the ledge to the right, to two bol...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Anybody happen to know what that easy little warm up slot to the right of The Bomb is??? I can't find beta on it anywhere. I'd give it a 5.3 or 5.4... Done it twice to just get warmed up and play around. Kinda fun, but short and easy. Set up the belay on the tiny evergreen to the right of the first Bomb rap. Last two times I did it I scooted climber left to Calypso's pins and rapped from there. Any info, let me know!!! Thanks.~WM
GET THE BETA ON YOUR DECENT ROUTE or it's just a pain in the ass.
If you climb to the top of Wind Tower instead of taking the exit trail, do yourself a favor and take the time to get the beta on the decent (repell bolts) for your route!! We went half-hearted to the top thinking we'll just find our way down when we get there, everyone had told us that "they're there." We didn't immediately find a way down and thought we'd cruise down the slabs. It took us longer to get down than up. We did one repel plus a mini one. We didn't feel as bad about it after we noticed quite a few sets of slings littering the trees. :)
In that case.... after topping out on the wind tower, travel north for approximately 200 yards from the summit point. Travel is typically easiest on the E side of the ridge within ~50 yards of the ridgeline (it varies). Get to an obvious rotton notch that's about 10-15 feet wide. The bolts face north, are in this notch, and are set up to allow a good rappell back down to the visible descent trail 60 feet below.
Anyone every try to climb (or even specifically locate) the climb Smooth Z, just down from Raisin Bran on the SW corner of the Wind Tower. I couldn't find a distinct line, let alone one I could protect with 2-2.5" cams in anything resembling OK rock. I sure have a nice hole in my left hand from where I tore a hold off with though... 8 days later and I still have a portion of the stigmata left. This roof Feels darn hard for 5.11, presently. I couldn't even dog my way up it.
I usually abhor such crowded routes and have gotten back to the Flatirons after years of Eldo but who doesn't love this one? At one time this was said to be the most travelled route in the state. Can anyone comment that it still is?
We did the three pitches up Wind Ridge today... the third pitch is definitely worth doing. Roof feels like 5.6. Jug city after that. From the summit, the best to do for [descent] is to downclimb towards the north until you run across a thick old cable strung across the slabs. This runs for 40 or 50 feet. From there, don't head straight up the notch, but continue 20 feet or so to the next one. On the West facing side there's two [vertically] stacked rappel bolts. It's an easy single rope rappel to the decent trail. Enjoy... I sure did!
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