It's Time For Change is dedicated to Barack Obama, who was inaugurated as the 44th President of the United States on the day of the first ascent.
Fun moves and exhilarating exposure make this one of the best moderate routes at the crag.
Climb Night Moves past the first three bolts to a good ledge. Continue up a short right-facing corner to another ledge. Stem up a steep dihedral and pull left onto an airy arete (crux). Follow the arete to the anchor.
Note: Climb almost straight up the arete; don't go too far left or you'll miss the bolts and the anchor.
Location
On the big shelf on the left side of the Bihedral, where Night Moves and Diamonds and Rust begin. The route shares the first three bolts with Night Moves before splitting off to the left.
Protection
8 bolts and three optional gear placements (yellow Alien, green #.75 and yellow #2 Camalots). Two-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. Strong leaders may be happy with just the bolts.
By Eric Bruce From: Longmont, CO Aug 22, 2009 rating: 5.8
CONDITION REPORT
There is a large torso sized block just below the seventh bolt that feels ready to blow off the route. Barely grabbing it caused the whole thing to shift. I didn't prod much to see if it's wedged in but it sure felt like a heavy breeze would be enough to send it flying. I marked it with chalk x'es but as always, exercise caution and climb safe.
By John Maguire From: Boulder, CO Nov 13, 2009 rating: 5.8+
CONDITION REPORT
The torso sized block is still there and still ready to go. It's especially dangerous because the rope runs right on top of it when you clip the bolts before and after. I ended up bailing on the route at the thought of not wanting to kill my belayer. I would have been more than happy to try to clean it, but there were several parties climbing on the area directly underneath the route and it was far too risky. As it stands, I wouldn't feel comfortable belaying anyone up or climbing this route myself with the block poised like that. Be very careful until it is gone.
Nice addition guys. I was wondering if someone else would have put up a commemorative route on such an auspicious day. My own commemorating was a new crag, Inaugural Crag, and a new route installed, prepped, and ready to go, but not yet red pointed (Ascendancy). The change has begun.
By John Maguire From: Boulder, CO Feb 7, 2009 rating: 5.8+
Really fun route and great place to climb sport. Nice to see you on the climb Ron. Thanks again for all your work here.
Fun route with some wild moves! Let's hope the crux block doesn't feel it's time for change. There are several loose appearing blocks near the crux but upon closer inspection they seem solidly wedged.
By Justin Cantrall From: Smoulder, CO May 9, 2009 rating: 5.8
Beware some loose rock in the crack near the crux block towards the top. It shouldn't be a problem, just be mindful of what you pull on (as you should always...).
Bolts are where you need 'em, but there is a section of fairly runout easy climbing. No problem; bring some gear if it makes you feel better, or just keep your wits about you as you make easy moves to the next bolt.
Good fun route with some nice exposure. There is definitely some loose rock. I nearly pulled off a chicken head while climbing it near the second bolt. Looks like people use that hold a lot, and it's bound to go sometime. Some of the boulders on the arete also looks suspect. They are bomber now, but may loosen up after time.
I also agree with the previous post's about the large rock right below bolt #7 at the crux. It was very loose when I arrived at the crux and I stopped the climb because of it. It needs to be cleared off safely by strapping it and lowering it down. Being that it is right at the crux, I would not climb this route till it is taken care of properly.
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