Start just right of a pine tree at the right side of The Wall of the Dead. Climb a corner just left of the arete to a ledge. Continue up another corner and move right to an airy stance on the arete. Work up to a roof, and turn it on the left. Step left and climb an awkward corner to the anchor.
Protection
7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A few longer runners to use by the roof can help with rope drag.
[Eds. Note that the 2 bolts from Dead Zone aka Sarcophagus just to the left can confuse the unwary, onsight climber. If you clip these, you need 9 QDs.]
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Aug 6, 2002 rating: 5.9
This is one of my favorite routes at Avalon. Fun, airy moves with excellent position. Also, it seems a bit easier than 10a. The move stepping left under the roof is more committing than difficult. Many of my friends who are not 5.10 climbers have cruised this pitch on a top rope. I'd give it two stars and rate it 5.9.
Two things I've noticed about you, Ron: You feel the need to post on every single climb you do (in this case, TWICE), and you seem to be climbing with (and posting photos of) a different woman every week. I guess I'm jealous.
Unique pitch; sustained and varied. The last several feet can mix you up. Pro is fine but there are a few spooky moves right before clips. I wouldn't recommend this to someone just breaking into 5.10 leading.
By Peter Beal From: Boulder Colorado Sep 26, 2004 rating: 5.9
5.9,5.9+ whatever the grade, a lot of fun with good features, interesting climbing. Well worth two stars.
I am not opposed to people bringing their dogs to the crags, however, if you do, you must be responsible for your dog at ALL times.
Considerations:
It is not OK for your dog to bark at, or approach in an aggressive manner, other climbers coming up to the crag. If your dog is [territorial] and aggressive, leave it at home.
It is not OK for your dog to leave a pile of shit at the bottom of a crag. As of this Sunday, there is a big pile of dog shit at the bottom of the route Dead Can Dance at Avalon. This is unconscionable and should never happen. It is not the dog's fault, but the owner's. CLEAN UP AFTER YOUR DOG or don't bring your dog.
This stuff is just common sense and common courtesy.
Come on people. We need to work together here.
Richard Rossiter
By Jason Haas From: Westminster, CO Aug 21, 2008 rating: 5.9-
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