Boulder up to the same jug system you'd grab to start Magie Noire, then head left and straight up the blankish face to the base of the hanging roof. Blocky, pinchy, Rifle-like moves get you through this, then a jug run to the anchors, up over the lip of the wall.
Overhangs 10 feet in 45, with sustained moves -- anomalous for Boulder Canyon and a good pump. If you fall off, maybe you need to "pinche" little harder.
Location
One route right of El Gallito, or one route left of Magie Noire. This is the sixth route in from the left.
Protection
6 bolts to 2-bolt anchors with links. Thanks to Bruno for having installed the anchors and letting me finish the route.
By Dan Levison From: Boulder Aug 13, 2008 rating: 5.12c
Probably the best route at the crag. A right kneebar at the crux (getting into the overhanging blocky rock) makes the crux straight forward and enjoyable, without the kneebar/kneepad (jessery, cheating, whatever) the crux is painful and hard relying on powerful pinching. Great route and nice addition to the crag....
There's also a crafty left heel and hidden undercling combo if the kneebar (sharp) is cutting you up. A little slice of Rifle-tech beta-climbing, but in our backyard!
By jarthur From: Westminster, Colorado Sep 9, 2008
I saw the possibility of getting a kneebar under the roof, but opted out with a series of underclings, pinches, and key foot sequences to a dynamic move over the roof instead. The tricky sequence getting to the 3rd bolt is just awesome. It helps to put your dancing shoes on up to the roof. Good eye Matt for picking out the best line at the crag.
Stepping Stones
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