Mephistophiles 

FA:  Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 2002 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10c [details] Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Views: 236 page views Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 23, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Mephistophiles. Climb discontinuous finger and ha...

Description 

Approach: Go to the main tier of Solaris, traverse left past Contact, and head up a gully on the right. Spot a ledge on the right side of the gully with a line of bolts; this is Twilight Zone. Mephistophiles starts 10' left of Twilight Zone and goes up a left-angling crack system, with one bolt high on the route.

Climb the left-angling finger and hand crack to a stance by a bolt on the steep upper headwall. Make several difficult moves past the bolt, gaining a flared finger and hand crack. Continue up the flared crack to the top.

The rock on this route is still quite dirty, with lots of lichen to spice up the crux headwall.

We top-roped this route after doing Twilight Zone. The protection on the lower part of the route looks reasonable, but the protection in the flared crack at the top looks as if it could be difficult to place.

Protection 

Finger-to-hand-sized gear plus one bolt at the crux. 2-bolt anchor at the top.

Can top-rope after doing Twilight Zone by traversing over from the Twilight Zone anchor to the Mephistopheles anchor.

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Christa Cline by the finger and hand crack below t...