BETA PHOTO: Buried Alive. Climb the two pitches of Buried Tre...
Description
Buried Treasure is a fun, moderate 2-pitch sport route on Treasure Wall. It is the easiest multi-pitch sport route on the crag, and is a great first multi-pitch outing for newer climbers.
After completing Buried Treasure, you can continue up the final pitch of Stayin' Alive (10a) for a fun, 3-pitch sport route to the top of Tonnere Tower. This variation is called Buried Alive. See beta photo.
Buried Treasure was intentionally created as a sport route, to provide an easy multi-pitch clip-up for newer climbers. In many places, it can also be protected with trad gear. If you prefer to place gear, bring your trad rack and see how many bolts you can skip. If you prefer to clip bolts, bring your quickdraws.
IF YOU GET UPSET BY ROUTES THAT HAVE BOLTS NEAR TRAD GEAR PLACEMENTS, THEN DON'T CLIMB THIS ROUTE! THERE ARE PLENTY OF OTHER TRAD AND MIXED ROUTES AT TONNERE THAT YOU WILL PROBABLY ENJOY FAR MORE.
If you prefer routes that require trad gear, check out Nick of Time and Clean Sweep in Sport Land; Join The Party, Fields of Gold, and Workingman's Blues on Treasure Wall; Just Do It, Fine Fir, Crackdown, Showtime, Dutch Treat, Border Crossing, and The B Boys in The Garden; and Curtain Call, Local Hero, Creekside Cruise, Liquid Therapy, Spirit on the Water, and Los Pinos at Creekside.
Take the Treasure Wall approach, and go uphill about 60' to a slabby face just left of a huge left-facing dihedral. The route starts on this slabby face.
P1: Climb up easy rock to the first bolt. Stem off the dihedral to the right past the first two bolts (5.9). The rock is a little friable in this area, so be careful. A more difficult variation climbs the thin face directly without stemming (5.10a). Continue up and work left onto an arete. Climb up a steep exposed face, with a cool crux at the 7th and 8th bolts. The easiest line steps up left and traverses back right (5.9). A harder variation climbs straight up past these bolts (5.10). Continue up to the anchor on a small pedestal. 5.9 to 5.10, 95', 10 bolts.
P2: Traverse right from the pedestal, step up to clip the first bolt, and crank up to a stance (5.7). Angle up right to a steeper face by the 3rd bolt. Make some thin face moves up and right (5.8). Continue up right to an airy arete. You could also go up the gully and face left of the arete, but the arete is more fun. Climb the easy but exposed arete, past some unusual rock, and angle left to the anchor. This anchor is the starting anchor for Clean Sweep. 5.8, 75', 6 bolts.
P3 - Sport finish: Buried Alive ***: continue with the final pitch of Stayin' Alive (5.10a, 95', 13 bolts), for a 3-pitch sport route to the top of Tonnere Tower. Angle a bit left to get to the first bolt of Stayin' Alive from the anchor atop Buried Treasure. A longer runner or two are helpful if you do this. You could also move the belay 15' left to the regular Stayin' Alive anchor; see beta photo. To descend, rappel 95' back to the anchor atop Buried Treasure.
P3 - Trad finish: If you brought a trad rack, you can finish on Clean Sweep (5.9, gear). Trad purists should do this finish instead of Stayin' Alive, where they will no doubt be offended by "unnecessary bolts". To descend, rappel 90' back to the anchor atop Buried Treasure.
Descents from the top of Buried Treasure: a. Two rappels (70' and 95') back to the start. Angle the first rappel a bit to the left to get back to the anchor atop the first pitch. After the second rappel, pull the rope from the left to keep the rope from landing on a stump in the corner on the right, 40' off the ground.
b. If you want to do more climbs on the east face, you can do a single 95' rappel from the Stayin' Alive p1 anchor back to the start of Face Off/Nick Of Time.
Location
Follow the Treasure Wall approach. Hike 60' right up the hill to the start of the route, above a flat terrace. The route starts up a slabby face just left of a big left-facing dihedral.
P1: 10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. P2: 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. P3: (Stayin' Alive) 13 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. P3: (Clean Sweep) gear to 3" to a 2-bolt anchor.
Trad climbers can skip some of the bolts and place gear on the route if they so desire.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Jul 10, 2007
A second pitch has been added to Buried Treasure: 5.8, 75', 6 bolts. It climbs a face and exposed arete up to the starting anchor for Clean Sweep.
From here, you can continue with the last pitch of Stayin' Alive (10a, 95', 13 bolts) for a fun 3-pitch 10a sport route called "Buried Alive", which goes to the top of Tonnere Tower. See beta photo for details.
If you brought your trad rack, you could also continue with Clean Sweep (9, 95', gear to 3"), for an enjoyable 3-pitch mixed route.
Climbed the "Buried Alive" (p1 & p2 Buried Treasure, p3 Staying Alive) variation last night. Great link-up. The undercling traverse into the V-slot on the final pitch was really fun. Thanks for all of the work you've done on this area Ron!
This is a bolted two pitch crack climb. It's really sad to see what would have been a high quality line with bolts literaly 4 inches away from bomber cam placements. I can see where maybe one or two bolts would calm the mind down for people uncomfortable with body length runouts, but overall the bolting on this climb is unexcusable. Another issue I noticed is the pruning of trees on the approach to this area and on the climb. If you're going to prune a tree. please learn how to do it properly. Hacking multiple branches off at mid length does nothing but eventualy rot the branch back and will kill the tree. I respect the amount of time and work that went into establishing this area, and I don't mean to come off as a purist. Beleive me, I'm just as happy to clip a bolt as the next guy, but the bolting of this route is simply wrong.
Please consider a second opinion that the bolts on this line are completely superfluous. Not a contrived but rather a natural line on gear. A recommended line considering the moves, but at the moment a line defaced.
Really fun route. Three stars if you combine the last pitch of Stayin Alive.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Sep 22, 2007 rating: 5.8
One of the better lines in this part of the wall, sadly, it deserves no more than 2 bolts. Lead ground-up on gear while cleaning it, the only bolts that tempted me were those leading out right to gain the arete 2/3 up, but I found myself on 5.8 jugs anyway... Both bolts there are OK, but only one was really needed to protect the moves. If those had been the only bolts this would read differently, but that is not the case.
I cleaned a lot of cracks out with my nut tool and sewed the climb up as I liked, save for that one place. It's a shame it was not done in mixed or trad style, in my opinion. This is a good candidate for the FA party to reconsider the bolts on. In my opinion, the route would be improved.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Sep 22, 2007
Tony Bubb wrote:
The pruned bush 40' up is now a dead series of sticks and stumps that are real rope grabbers- it caught our rope when we pulled it down on rap. With so many "fingers," the rope was so entwined that it was not pull-able. No big deal, but a hassle. Perhaps this should be more evenly trimmed since it's chopped already.
Thanks for the heads up, Tony; I'll deal with it next time I do the route.
I avoid the bush when I pull the rappel rope by moving downhill to the left, and giving the rope a sharp tug as the trailing end nears the top. The rope then falls well left of the bush. Pulling the rope from the base of the climb and not giving it a tug just before it falls will cause the rope to come down atop the bush.
I've seen other experienced climbers make this mistake too. I learned early in my climbing career to study each rappel carefully, and figure out the best place from which to pull the rope, and if the rope needs a tug or not when the trailing end nears the anchor. I urge all climbers to think before pulling the rappel rope, especially on a potential rope-grabber like this one.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Sep 23, 2007 rating: 5.8
Bob, Regarding your question as to why I climbed this trad: I did what I did because I wanted to. Not because you wanted me to. That is the simplest answer. Why do you subject people on line to questions how you think they should do a route? My ascent affects nobody but me & my partner. Would you feel better if you could pick out my after-work schedule & let me know what routes to do, with whom and in what style? You have serious control issues & I am not your little kid.
So Tony...take this into account when you question Ron, me or anyone else on the style of their route...
We did what we did because we wanted to. Not because you wanted us to. That is the simplest answer.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Sep 23, 2007 rating: 5.8
I have a lot to say about these routes because you guys bolted several routes Ron asked me not to climb trad first. When you request the privilege of determining the style of climbing on a particular route, you should accept that people may or may not like the style.
So Bob, How about that bolt on "Bobby's Back" that you put 18" below the historic fixed pin? Could you address that here?
The fact that it was there as a sign that someone climbed right there prior to your FA. It is a certain record (history) of passage. Not on the bottom part, but certainly where some of your bolts and anchors are. Now, can you address that?
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Sep 23, 2007
FWIW, I think it is an unwarranted assumption that no one cared about this crag...just because no one reported many ascents or scraped off the lichen/moss or bolted routes. It had been on my list to explore for years, but family/work/finding interested partners to explore delayed it. I'm guessing I'm not alone.
No you're not... Years ago I looked at the tower and thought the effort wasn't worth it. Vaino and I... while working on the Plotinus Wall would comment that we had to go check it out. We never did.
Actions speak louder than words and I give credit to Ron and Bruno for making the effort and establishing the routes that they did. I don't alway agree with their actions as other people don't alway agree with mine but I at least respect the effort they put forth. They have also put up a number of quality routes for people to enjoy.
Leo...you are smart with a fair amount of energy...if it was really important to you I think you would have made the time to go do routes on the tower.
Later, Bob
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Sep 24, 2007
Bob, I was addressing your point about no one caring about this crag. Thanks for the compliment. Family, work, mutual interests of my climbing partners put this crag (among others) at a lower priority in life. The most important things I do in life...I don't post. Climbing routes are not a measure of most folks' "actions" in life. Occasionally, I get to go exploring. Also, I was not disrespecting anyone's "efforts." Finally, if popularity were a measure of quality, N. Table Mt. routes would probably be the best routes in Colorado...hmmm.
Leo...same on my side. My family is the most important thing in my life. My wife and I raised three children and I worked full time all during my climbing days.
That's why a few bolts on a wall isn't really that big of deal to me and I am not going to judge the person/people who put them on that basis. I am also not going to judge the people who clip them...if they are having fun that's good enough for me.
I think Tonnere Tower is a great asset to the Boulder climbing community and will give many people access to some good climbing on good routes with a short approach.
Tony...glad to see you are taking this in jest. Aging is a nice way to put it...next year (55) I get full on senior discounts. Also...It was 5.12...not 5.11. I said that statement to give you a historical perspective on what I was climbing and when I did it...this isn't my first rodeo.
Again...I didn't put the anchor bolts in or the bolt near the pin. The pin is crap and not historical (this isn't the Naked Edge).
Don't you think if this route was historical that someone would have reported it in a guidebook??
Bob wrote "The pin is crap and not historical (this isn't the Naked Edge).
Don't you think if this route was historical that someone would have reported it in a guidebook?? "
Bob, I think that is an ignorant and very narrow minded opinion on history. While you did not place the bolt next to the pin, condoning such behavior is destructive to the community at large because it is essentially disrespecting the efforts of those who came before you. The argument about it being acceptable to bolt next to a fixed pin because the route was not previously reported is ludicrous. Many climbers do not always know who the correct person to get information to is in order to make it into the next guidebook edition and websites like mtnproject didn't always exist. Also, I interpret your statement to mean that you believe that if people don't beat on their chest and brag about their achievements, then somehow their accomplishments are invalid? I hope I am misinterpreting what you are saying. Why do people think that owning a drill is a blanket permit to do what you want, especially when it is destructive (that's a permanent hole in that rock)? Many sport climbers say something along the lines of we found the face first, or cleaned it first, so if we bolted it, then you should have explored the face before we did. But now you are saying that in this instance, well some trad climbers got here first, but they didn't report it so we still get to bolt the face and you traddies just have to deal with it. To me, this seems like we cannot have a productive conversation about how to guide climbers of the next generation with such close-minded perspectives because in the end people are just going to do what they want to do, whether that means bolting or chopping. Happy climbing everyone and hopefully everyone can just coexist if not get along.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Oct 14, 2007
Tony Bubb wrote:
The pruned bush 40' up is now a dead series of sticks and stumps that are real rope grabbers- it caught our rope when we pulled it down on rap. With so many "fingers," the rope was so entwined that it was not pull-able. No big deal, but a hassle. Perhaps this should be more evenly trimmed since it's chopped already.
Took care of this today. The stumps were cut back to be as flush as possible with no protrusions. I still recommend pulling the rope from the left to avoid the stumps, but it shouldn't be a problem if the rope lands there any more.
By percious From: Arvada, CO May 26, 2008 rating: 5.8
I led this yesterday with a set of cams and stoppers. I feel it is rather well protected. As Tony has stated above, I think this route should be considered for retro-unbolting with the first ascentionist's permission. I think the bolts left of the crack on P2 of Staying Alive are an atrocity. This part of the climb in particular is well protected and does not warrant permanent fixtures. I encourage other 5.9 leaders to lead the route traditionally and weigh in on the issue.
For those looking to lead this marvelous climb, a set of stoppers (every other size will probably do) and cams to 2 1/2 inches will be suitable, perhaps with doubles in the 1/2->1 inch sizes.
We first met at the suggestion of a friend, he told me I'd like you and that you were fun. Boy, he was right! We had some good times, didn't we? Sure, I may have gotten a little off-track with you here or there, but I always came back! I'm sorry it had to end - it's not you, it's me! I like you just the way you are. Don't you ever change!
First visit to Tonnere tower today. I like clipping bolts and I like mixed routes, but the 400ft. of bolted cracks on Buried Alive is an absolute disgrace.
By Mike Munger From: Boulder, Colorado Jul 18, 2008
This is appalling bullshit. It appears that you are attempting to establish a new ethic in a test area to see what kind of a reaction you get before moving on to a wider venue. When are you going to bolt Country Club?
This place is really off the charts tacky. Too bad, really. Beautiful location, stone, moves. And the 400' line of bolts next to perfectly good placements. And the hyper-defensive developers (thanks by the way for all the great routes you guys have established, just hate this one) straining to defend their every move...is it really that big of a deal to say "hey, whoops, it was dirty at first so we went on a drilling spree. Now there is tons of gear, so, uh, let's just remove em." Why is that such a crazy idea? You can use the bolts for some other worthy project, right? Why does every route like this have to run into a battlefield between various veterans with simmering animosities? Let it go. Come to terms with your "legacy." Relax and enjoy the accolades. Respond to criticism with the dignity of someone truly accomplished. Stop acting like some whiny, insecure punk. Let it go. You might be wrong. Considering the acres and acres of bolted rock you guys have established, do you really have to fight tooth and nail to justify every inch of it? Does community response mean nothing? For one, I still find it hard to believe that some of the folks justifying this abomination, given their lengthy and proud trad background, are really jumping in so strenuously in defense of this bs.
Just curious: What is the climbing ethic these days? Number 1 or number 2 ?
1) It is NOT OK to bolt perfectly protectable cracks.
2) Whoever has a power drill can decide what to do. If they feel like bolting a crack then it's OK. If they don't feel like bolting a crack then it becomes a gear climb.
If the ethic is #1 then Tonnere Tower is bogus. If the ethic is #2 then Tonnere Tower fits with the new ethic.
I guess me and my friends missed something because we thought that the ethic was #1. Please clue me in about how the Majority climbers have decided that ethic #2 is the new way. And if things are not decided by the Majority any more, then what give you the right to decide what to do? A power drill and a pile of bolts?
BTW, What's your plans for the next crag you develop? More of the same?
Carol Kotchek
By kevinnlong From: Boulder, CO Aug 8, 2008 rating: 5.8
If put to a vote, I would support chopping all but two bolts on this route. Leave the anchors; that is fine, but the bolts next to the cracks should be removed.
With that said, this is an excellent route. I really enjoyed my experiences today at the tower. Thank you FA folk.
As a new climber, doing mostly top ropes, just learning to lead some sport routes but having no experience placing gear yet, this route was a blast! Went with a better climber and actually led the middle pitch.
I would like to express my sincere thanks and appreciation to Ron Olsen, Bruno Hache, Bob D'Antonio, Ken Cangi and others who contributed their considerable time, effort, expense and expertise to create the climbing routes that are now to be found on Tonnere Tower. Please keep up your excellent work. I climbed at this area for the first time today and had a truly outstanding day of climbing. I will be back for more.
Guess what, there are climbers who don't climb trad. And never will. While trad climbers can choose not to use the bolts and put their gear in the cracks (the bolts aren't in their way in the cracks), but if you lead sport, what? you are sorry out of luck because a bunch of purists get to decide when rock gets bolted?? I was up at Exit 38 in WA appreciating the rare opportunity to have lots of moderate sport routes to gain lead experience on and then thought about Boulder Canyon, or Boulder in general and how there are all these people who think "if it's protectable, nearby bolts are an abomination and should be chopped". As much as I love where I live and the granite of the canyon and the close proximity of a lot climbing, it was a drag thinking about the attitudes I would be returning to.
It's just rock climbing, people, and there are different styles. Why should trad preclude sport climbing? Sport climbers aren't stopping trad climbers from doing their thing. As soon as you step off a trail you've changed nature. As soon as you apply sticky shoe rubber to the rock, you are aiding. Live and let live.
By Kyle Turner From: Brighton, CO Oct 30, 2008 rating: 5.9-
Bolts or gear, the buried alive link is a blast. Nice work guys! Look forward to going back for more on Tonnere. -KT
Treasure Wall
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