This route starts about 10 feet to the left of the leaning tree on the main wall. It follows the slab up to an overhanging dihedral and then to some more straightforward climbing to the anchors.
This is fun, varied route with a brutal and deceiving opening sequence. Above that is a weird flare that feels very awkward and insecure. Finally, it finishes with burly lieback moves.
Did this route again last night and I have to say this is a pretty great line for a 6 bolt 11b. It overhangs the whole way and stays in your face with slippery feet and hidden holds - it couldn't be much better. I think it is one of the better middle 11 sport routes in all of Boulder Canyon.
People tend to get shutdown on this route. Having a hair-raising and pumping experience on the onsight, I agree that this route is quality and fun. Having watched most climbers get shutdown hard, I understand why some do not regard it so highly. Relax, have fun, and pull hard - this route is cool.
Funny to see Elanor getting an 11+ rating and this route 11b on this site. I would agree with the 11 rating but this route feels harder than Elanor to me. And from what I've seen with other folks climbing it I bet Elanor gets onsighted more than this route. The ratings in Bolter Canyon sure seem wacky... BC is its own world.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO May 1, 2008 rating: 5.11b
I think it is because Elanor one is more sustained and people burn out. I felt more pressed on that one. I suppose The Joker could be more technical, but doesn't punch as hard at the top...
The opening moves are kind of reachy and the landing is not great and if you're short like me (5'4"), it's hard to hang the first draw from a safe stance. If the draw is already hung, clipping the rope is possible. Luckily, some nice boys let me use their stick clip pole thingy.
Easter Rock
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