Richard on the FA of the spectacular dihedral of M...
Description
The 3 crack climbs, Mystery Ship, Ship of Fools, & Mystery Tour (aka Crack Land Dihedral) begin from a common system and branch to individual lines after the first 30 feet. Begin about 10 feet left of Mystery Ship and follow vague, blocky terrain to where the lines diverge (5.6, gear to 1 inch, 30 feet). All 3 lines top out at the belay tree for Dragon Slayer. Lower off or rappel 90 feet from slings with rings. Extensive cleaning and trail work have been done to provide access to these excellent crack climbs.
These routes are located on the NW side of the Third Tier of Avalon just left of Mystery Ship. This is actually the far right side of the NE Face, perhaps 100 feet right of Ancient Light.
Tape up for the Mystery Tour. Begin as for the previous two routes, but stay right and gain a stance beneath a magnificent, left-facing dihedral with a perfect crack. Jam to the top of the dihedral, then step left and climb the final crack for Ship of Fools. Hands, fists and arm bars. Bitchin'.
Location
Mystery Tour is the right of 3 cracks at the far right side of the Crack Land. Begin 10 feet left of Mystery Ship.
Protection
Mostly cams from 1 inch to 4 inches. A 5-inch piece can be placed in a short offwidth section. Lower off or rappel 90 feet from slings with rings around a good tree.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jun 20, 2008 rating: 5.8+
Better gear and better moves than it appears from the ground. A fun climb overall. Too bad the lower angle stuff at the bottom is not more like the top corner. No wide gear necessary, despite appearances.
I hauled up several boat anchors because it looked wide from the ground, but never placed the really big stuff. Some #3 Camalots and a couple #2 Camalots would sew the climb up.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Jul 1, 2008 rating: 5.9
A nice, physical corner crack -- too bad it's not longer. Two #2 Camalots and two #3 Camalots protect the widest sections well -- no need for anything larger. Smaller gear useful below and above the wide part. No need to tape up -- the crack isn't too rough.
Belay at the tree at the top and bring your partner up. Then do Dragon Fly and Dragon Slayer which start at this tree.
Thanks to Richard and Pebby for their hard work to open up these lines.
Crack Land
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