BETA PHOTO: The Hanged Man. The crux is the roof at the first...
Description
The Hanged Man is the rightmost climb on Tarot Wall. There is a low roof about 10' up. The Hanged Man climbs the roof about 10' left of the roof's right edge. This is about 10' right of The Horse.
This is a one-move climb, but not a one-move wonder. The crux is a not particularly interesting roof right off the ground. Maneuver under the roof on somewhat grungy rock to reach over and make the clip. Grab a good sidepull and pop for a jug. Very easy ledges lead to a couple of 8ish moves to the anchor.
Rossiter rated this 11a. I'm tempted to call it 10a, but I'll split the difference at 10c. If you're below a certain height, or if you insist on doing it statically, then it's harder.
Protection
4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. I used a green Alien to protect the first clip. Your can toprope the roof by walking in from the right to the 2nd bolt.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jul 23, 2005 rating: 5.10a
One awkward move to an easy upper climb. It isn't bad enough to 'bomb' but it isn't good enough to bother with either. There are better wastes of time around. I suppose if every other route around is full, you can justify doing this one... 40' doesn't take long at least! As well, my partner referred to this as a "trad climb with bolts on it." It would take gear just fine, but at least it's not a singular and obvious crack.
This route is really silly. The move at the bottom is ok, but this is one move, and it deposits you on a grassy ledge, which you then walk up a bit to some irrelevant upper moves. I really don't see why this was bolted.
Boulder the bottom move, it's not too high and the landing is fine.
Tarot Wall
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